Via de la Plata Stages: From Sevilla to Santiago

226

If you’re planning on walking the Via de la Plata and want to know which are the stages, where to stay, where to eat, and how to best prepare for each stage, you’re in the right place.

This page contains affiliate links. If you buy through these links I may receive a small commission, with no additional cost to you. I only recommend products or services I tried or I find useful and reliable.

This is going to be a long one. I mean both a long post and a long Camino. Depending on how you divide it, the Via de la Plata has upwards of 36 stages. That means 36 days of walking, without counting rest days. In my case, it was 42 days with the rest days, exactly six weeks from Sevilla to Santiago de Compostela.

Throughout this article, I will list the official stages and give you my alternatives. By official, I mean the stages you’ll find on most websites and apps. However, you can find some differences. I just chose the most popular ones, but you’ll hardly stick to them, and that’s okay. You may want to divide some stages or walk longer on some days. While that is not always possible on the via de la Plata, you’ll have some wiggle room.

Regardless of how your Camino will look like, I want to share with you my experience and give you some tips on practical things like albergues, restaurants, and even special things to note about some stages. But before getting into the Via de la Plata stages, I want to spend a few words on some useful terminology and some notes regarding what you’ll be reading here.

Useful information about the Via de la Plata Stages

First of all, this post focuses exclusively on the stages of the Via de la Plata from Sevilla to Santiago de Compostela, via the Camino Sanabrés. If you want to know how to prepare for the Camino, including when to walk, what to pack, and the resources I used, I wrote an entire article dedicated to that. Find it here.

Now let’s get into the things you’ll find throughout this article.

• Via de la Plata stages: I didn’t always follow the “official” stages. I will still mention them, but will only go into a little more detail on the stages I walked.
• Albergues: I mostly stayed in albergues municipales (run by the local government). You need a credencial to access albergues (you’ll find this info in the article I mentioned above). I sometimes stayed at other types of accommodation, which I will mention and link to. You won’t be able to book albergues municipales in advance. Private albergues may take reservations. Always call them directly instead of booking on other websites, this way you can get the pilgrim’s discount. Gronze.com has the most up-to-date infor and contact details. For other types of accommodation, you can book online. I booked these through Booking.com.
• Donativo: it means donation-based. Some albergues are donation-based, meaning that you can leave as much as you want. They usually have a box where you leave your donation. I usually left €7 just for sleeping. This is totally up to you. Some albergues are even cheaper than that, so it seemed appropriate.
• Lunch or dinner: you’ll find indications whenever I got the menu del peregrino. This usually includes an appetizer or soup and a main dish, with a drink included. If there’s no indication, it means they didn’t have a menu or I didn’t get one.
• Breakfast: only a few albergues offer it. When they do, I will mention it. Otherwise, I will mention the café where I had breakfast.
• Stage length: I added the length both in km and miles. Note that there may be small differences between websites and it also depends on the location of your albergue in the departure and arrival locations.
• Stage numbers: I added these for the purpose of keeping things organized. You’ll likely divide some stages differently, so it won’t matter. Pay attention to the towns more than anything.

That should cover everything so that you know what I’ll be talking about next. let’s get into it.

Stage 1: Sevilla to Guillena, 22.8 km – 14.2 miles

This first stage of the Via de la Plata is pretty easy and not too long, without any climbing. I completed it in just over five hours, with a short break roughly halfway. You can stop in Santiponce for a coffee break and get an extra sello if you want to. I stopped at Bar El Barranco for coffee and a sello, then passed by the Roman Theater in town, but it was closed. 

In Guillena, I went to the albergue municipal but found it closed, so I stayed at Albergue Luz del Camino, where I met the first pilgrims. The albergue is basic but nice and offers a simple breakfast included in the price. 

• Intermediate stages: Santiponce (9 km from Sevilla)
• Accommodation: Albergue Luz del Camino, €14 with breakfast included
• Restaurants: Hostal Bar Francés (Guillena), €8.50 for menu del peregrino
• Things to note: Depending on where you stay in Sevilla, you may have to walk longer to get out of the city. If you want, head to the Cathedral early in the morning and ask for the sello. I had a little misadventure here (they couldn’t find the stamp), but usually, you should have no problems.

Stage 2: Guillena to Castilblanco de los Arroyos, 18.2 km – 11.3 miles

This stage is short, but it was a bit complicated for me. It had rained the evening before, so the path was quite muddy. Furthermore, it started raining again after a while, though not too hard, and it stopped after less than half an hour. 

The tough bit about this stage is that there is no stop along the way. Just nature. But the landscape is beautiful, so make sure to enjoy it. 

My feet were hurting when I reached Castilblanco de los Arroyos after four hours of walking constantly. I already had a blister on my right toe. On the bright side, we got there early for lunch, a nice and filling menu del peregrino. Also, the albergue is donation-based. 

For dinner, I went to grab something from the supermarket (SPAR), so I could also have sandwiches for the next day. I highly recommend this because stage 3 is much longer, with no intermediate stops. 

• Intermediate stages: None
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Castilblanco de los Arroyos (municipal, donativo)
• Restaurants: Asador El Tito Emi, €9 menu del peregrino
• Things to note: This stage has 18 km with no stops in between, make sure you have enough water and bring a snack. If you’re a slow walker, consider bringing lunch or even more snacks. If the weather is nice, there are lovely spots to stop along the way. 

Stage 3: Castilblanco de los Arroyos to Almadén de la Plata, 28.8 km – 18 miles

This stage is quite long and complicated. For the first 15 km give or take, you’ll be walking along the side of the road on the tarmac. This can be quite hard on your feet, so make sure to have small breaks whenever you can. 

There’s a bit of up and down, but nothing major until you’re almost at your destination. The last bit is tough, there’s a steep hill followed by a descent. After 27 km, it’s challenging. Have a break before the hill and even halfway if needed. The view will repay your efforts in the end. 

Almadén de la Plata is small and charming and has a nice albergue municipal where you can go and settle in even if there’s nobody around – they’ll come eventually for your money and the sello. 

I didn’t eat out here, I opted for grocery shopping and cooking in the albergue instead. There’s a well-furnished supermarket to buy food, bars, and a pharmacy (I needed it). I recommend strolling around town for a bit if you have any energy left, it’s quite charming. 

It took me nearly 8 hours to complete this stage, but I had a one-hour lunch break in the Sierra Norte Natural Park, this gorgeous park you’ll be passing through. 

• Intermediate stages: None
• Accommodation: Albergue Municipal de Almadén de la Plata (€8 for people under 31, €10 for those over 31)
• Restaurants: Bar la Morena for breakfast
• Things to note: This is a long stage, don’t forget to pack lunch and snacks and bring enough water. Plan to stop for lunch in the Sierra Norte National Park.
  • Walking poles came in handy for the climb at the end. Don’t forget to stop and check out the view from the platform at the top. 
  • I know of pilgrims who shared a taxi ride until the beginning of the park to avoid walking on the tarmac. This is an option to avoid extreme fatigue and the pretty boring 15 km. Ask at the albergue about taxis.  

Stage 4: Almadén de la Plata to Monesterio, 34.4 km – 21.4 miles

This stage can be divided into two, many of the pilgrims I was walking with did that, so I left most of them behind as I decided to do it all. If you choose not to divide it, you’ll have quite a few options for intermediate stops. 

For me, it was one of the most challenging stages of the entire Camino, not so much for the length as for the pain in my feet. I had very painful blisters on my little toes, and I made the mistake of removing my hiking boots and walking for a bit in sandals (thin, rubber sandals) after the first stop. After that, I tried wearing the boots again, but there was no way. I walked in sandals (with the addition of socks squeezed in between my toes, very fancy) for 20 km. If you’re curious about this story and more, check out this post.

The Camino itself is pretty easy, there’s just a slight climb towards the end, right before reaching Monesterio. It took me 9.5 hours to complete, with a one-hour stop in El Real de la Jara and multiple intermediate breaks. If you’re afraid of walking this long, divide it into two stages. 

• Intermediate stages: El Real de la Jara (14 km from Almadén de la Plata), Complejo Leo (11.5 km from El Real de la Jara)
• Accommodation: Albergue Las Moreras de Monesterio (municipal) €12.50 (I got a private room because the hospitalera was super nice, and impressed by my feat of getting there, plus there were few pilgrims. I was also among the first ones to arrive, to my surprise)
• Restaurants: 
  • El Real de la Jara: Cafetería El Encuentro, good coffee and ham sandwich
  • Complejo Leo (a big complex of restaurants and shops, good for a break, roughly 9 km before Monesterio)
  • Monesterio: Meson Casa Juan for nice tapas, Bar Leo for breakfast the next day
• Things to note: This stage is very long and challenging, especially this early on the Camino. Do think about dividing it if you have any doubts. However, with a few breaks and proper shoes, it is absolutely doable. Just be prepared to get bored if you’re alone (like I was). 

Stage 5: Monesteiro to Fuente de Cantos, 21.2 km – 13.2 miles

After the monster stage the day before, this will feel like a piece of cake. Despite not having any intermediate stages, the stage is quite short and not at all challenging, without any climbing. The only downside is that many areas have no shade, so on a sunny day it can feel quite hot. Aside from that, the landscape is gorgeous, with rolling hills covered in flowers as far as the eye can see. 

It took me just short of five hours to complete this stage, quite an achievement with the persistent pain in my feet. I switched back to my rubber sandals roughly halfway. A mental challenge is that Fuente de Cantos will show up in the distance a long time before you reach it, so it seems you’re almost there, but you never really get there. 

There was no albergue in Fuente de Cantos, so I opted for a single room at Casa Vicenta, a restaurant, and guesthouse with affordable rates for pilgrims. 

• Intermediate stages: None
• Accommodation: Casa Vicenta, €15 for a single room
• Restaurants: Casa Vicenta, menu del peregrino €10
• Things to note: Given the lack of services along the way, remember to pack snacks, water, and maybe even lunch.
  • Not long before reaching Fuente de Cantos, you’ll be crossing a small river. Make sure to look for arrows after that, as there’s a crossroads that confused many pilgrims. You need to keep the road to the left, but look for the arrows! Check out the map below.

Stage 6: Fuente de Cantos to Zafra, 24.6 km – 15.3 miles

This stage is not too long and pretty flat. The only issue you may encounter is the heat since there are almost no trees along the way. I didn’t start too early, so I caught all the midday heat, which didn’t help my injured feet. 

If you’re in good shape, you will find this a pleasant stage. The landscape is beautiful, and you have a couple of intermediate stages to rest and have a coffee or even lunch break. It took me seven hours to complete this stage, walking very slowly with pain in my feet, with a lunch break of nearly one hour. 

Zafra could be a good stage to spend a rest day if you choose to do so. The albergue there is great, offers an amazing dinner where you can socialize with other pilgrims, and is run by the friendliest and most welcoming hospitaleros. 

• Intermediate stages: Calzadilla de los Barros (6.4 km from Fuente de Cantos), Puebla de Sancho Pérez (14 km from Calzadilla de los Barros)
• Accommodation: Albergue Convento San Francisco (for €23.5 you get an amazing three-course dinner and breakfast the following day)
• Restaurants: Hostal Restaurante “El Monte” (Puebla de Sancho Pérez)
• Things to note: Bring enough water and refill if needed. With no shade, it can get pretty hot. Wear sunscreen. One of my fellow pilgrims had a bad sunburn, it’s no joke, even in April.
  • Make sure to explore Zafra, even just for a couple of hours in the afternoon or evening. 

Stage 7: Zafra to Vilafranca de los Barros, 19.2 km – 11.9 miles

This is a short and pleasant stage on Via de la Plata, great to recover after a few longer days. You’ll walk through a lovely forest and then along a dirt road lined with olive trees. The second part of the stage can get pretty hot, as there is no shade from the tiny olive trees. 

You’ll pass by a small village just five km after Zafra, where you can stop for coffee and a short break. Vilafranca de los Barros will come into sight early on when you still have about 7 km to go. 

The small town is very cute, and the albergue where I stayed is right by the main square and church, with a lovely view. I got there before 1 PM, as the albergue was preparing to open, after slightly more than 4 hours of walking. 

• Intermediate stages: Los Santos de Maimona (5 km after Zafra)
• Accommodation: Albergue Extrenatura, €12
• Restaurants: We ate a barely decent meal at the restaurant of Hotel Diana because it was Easter Sunday and most places were closed. Couldn’t really recommend it.
• Things to note: Right before reaching Vilafranca de los Barros you’ll walk a bit along a big road. After a while, you’ll come across a path turning right, but the arrows point straight. Turn right on the path. The arrows will take you around and back just further down the path. Check the map for safety. 

Stage 8: Vilafranca de los Barros to Torremejía, 27 km – 16.8 miles

This is a pretty long stage, but the main difficulty is not physical but mental. The path is pretty flat, and the distance is not overwhelming. The worst part is that you’ll be walking through endless olive tree fields with no shade and no intermediate stops. 

Out of the nearly 27 km of this stage, roughly 15 will be in a straight line, with short olive trees on both sides. You’ll just look at the horizon for hours, the heat evaporating from the ground on a warm day, the road ahead seemingly endless, and no signs of life except for the other occasional pilgrim. You may get pretty bored until finally, almost out of nowhere, you arrive at your destination. 

It took me slightly more than six hours to complete this stage, with a half-hour lunch break under the little shade of an olive tree. 

• Intermediate stages: None
• Accommodation: Albergue Rojo Plata, €14
• Restaurants: We cooked a communal dinner at the albergue with the other pilgrims. Other pilgrims recommend Hostal Restaurante Milenium
• Things to note: Prepare for a mentally tough stage. Bring water and food, keep hydrated, and take short breaks. Though mentally tough, the stage is doable. 

Alternative: Other pilgrims decided to deviate to Almendralejo, roughly 4.3 km from the official route. From the crossroads to Torremejía, you still have roughly 13 km, so you would be shortening the stage by almost 9 km. This means the following stage to Mérida will be longer, so keep that in mind. 

Stage 9: Torremejía to Mérida, 16 km – 10 miles

This stage is pretty easy. You’ll have a pleasant walk through stunning landscapes, way more trees, and an overall peaceful atmosphere. You’ll only have a brief section along the road, but other than that, it’s just beautiful. 

Before you know it, you’ll enter Mérida by crossing the ancient Roman Bridge, a gorgeous welcome to the city. It took me just over three hours to walk this stage, a pleasant morning walk. I think the 16km refers to some point in the center of Mérida, it’s shorter until the bridge. It was so short that I got to Mérida before noon, and had to waste some time before checking in. 

Because I had already planned on spending two nights in Mérida to get some work done, I booked a private room. However, I’ll add the hostel options down. I think spending two days in Mérida is a great choice to explore everything this gorgeous city has to offer and rest for a bit. At this point, you’ll have walked more than a quarter of the Camino, so it’s a good moment for a reward if you can afford it. 

• Intermediate stages: None
• Accommodation: I stayed at Imperial Mérida (€58 for two nights). You can check out Albergue de peregrinos – Molino de Pancaliente. 
• Restaurants: I can recommend Restaurante El Puchero de la Nieta (had menu del dia for €14), Jazz Bar Mérida for drinks at night, Restaurante Casa Maria (good breakfast)  
• Things to note: Nothing. This is a short and easy stage. Just enjoy it. 

Stage 10: Mérida to Alcuéscar, 36.4 km – 22.6 miles

This is a long stage, and most pilgrims end up dividing it into two. From this stage until Aldeanueva del Camino (stage 17), I did everything differently due to some health and practical issues (that you can read about in this blog post if you’re curious about my misadventures). 

I will list the official stages anyways and add one albergue recommendation, which is where I know other pilgrims stayed or where I would have stayed. Take these with a pinch of salt, as I haven’t experienced them. 

I will tell you about my stages instead. I feel like most people would benefit from dividing some large stages up, so feel free to adjust according to your needs. 

My alternative stage 10: Mérida to Cruce de las Herrerias

Bus Mérida to Aljucén + Walk to Cruce de las Herrerias (Los Olivos) 16.6 km – 10.3 miles

I took the bus from Mérida for about 20 minutes to Aljucén, then walked to a roadside restaurant and hotel called Los Olivos. The reason for this small detour was that we heard the albergue in Alcuéscar was closed. Other pilgrims suggested this as an accommodation, so we opted for it.

Los Olivos is a bit run down, mainly frequented by truck drivers and the occasional pilgrims, given its vicinity to the highway and the Camino. On the bright side, you get double and individual rooms, which can be nice for a change. Along with that, you also get brownish water coming out of the tap. You win some, you lose some. 

• Intermediate stages: Urbanización de Proserpina, El Carrascalejo, Aljucén (you can stop here to break the stage into two)
• Accommodation: Hostal-Restaurante Los Olivos, € 15 for a private room
• Restaurants: Kiosko El Parque (Aljucén, good breakfast), Hostal-Restaurante Los Olivos, menu del peregrino €11
• Things to note: If you end up going to Cruce de las Herrerias instead of Alcuéscar, you will need to deviate a bit from the official path, as the arrows will point towards Alcuéscar. Use a map to guide you when you’re close. You’ll have to look for a turn on a narrow path among the trees. Check this map for an idea. 

Stage 11: Alcuéscar to Cáceres, 38.2 km – 23.7 miles

I completely skipped this stage, so I cannot give you any details regarding the path. However, this stage is very long, so most pilgrims divide it into two by stopping in Aldea del Cano or Valdesalor. 

• Intermediate stages: Alcuéscar, Casas de Don Antonio, Aldea del Cano, Valdesalor
• Accommodation: Albergue Miliario del Verdinal (Aldea del Cano), Albergue de peregrinos de Valdesalor

My alternative stage 11: Cruce de las Herrerias to Cáceres

We woke up to heavy rain that, according to the forecast, would continue throughout the day. We all decided to take a bus from Cruce de las Herrerias to Cáceres. 

I was planning on spending two nights in Cáceres but ended up staying for three nights due to complications. I’ll add the two accommodations I stayed at. However, I recommend spending two nights in Cáceres to explore the beautiful medieval city. Here, you’ll also find a Decathlon in the city center if you need any extra equipment. 

• Accommodation: Albergue Turístico Las Veletas, €16; Hostal Hernán Cortés, €31 for a single room
• Restaurants: daR2cafeteria (for breakfast in Cáceres, near the bus station), Tapería Los Ibéricos (very good dinner menu for €12), La casa del goloso (for coffee/tea and cake), Lizarran (for tapas)
• Things to note: Spend some time exploring Cáceres.

Stage 12: Cáceres to Embalse de Alcántara, 33.4 km – 20.7 miles

After Cáceres, I had to improvise a lot and stayed only in private accommodation. I will list the places I stayed as well as the albergues you can find at each stop of the official Via de la Plata stages. 

The albergue in Embalse de Alcántara was closed when I walked the Camino, and as far as I know, it is still closed as of January 2023. Check Gronze.com for the most up-to-date information, or contact the albergue yourself. 

With no other accommodation option in Embalse de Alcántara, the following two stages can be complicated. You can do a short 12 km stage to Casar de Cáceres, and from there, walk roughly 32 km to Cañaveral. After that, you can either stick to the “official” stages or divide the next few stages differently, as I did. You have a few more options from here until Salamanca. 

Alternatively, if you don’t want to walk a 11 km stage to Casar de Cáceres, take a bus or train to Cañaveral and continue from there. 

• Intermediate stages: Casar de Cáceres (11 km from Cáceres)
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Casar de Cáceres

My alternative stage 12: Cáceres to Galisteo

Bus from Cáceres to Riolobos + Walking to Galisteo 10 km – 6.2 miles

This would be two stages in one, but I had to stay an extra night in Cáceres and wanted to catch up with my group and get some work done, so I had to compromise one last time and take a bus for a short bit. 

From Riolobos to Galisteo, it only took me two hours across rolling hills and lovely landscapes. The walled town of Galisteo appears from a distance as you look down from a hill. It’s a truly beautiful sight.

• Accommodation: I stayed at La Pensión del Parador, €34 for a gorgeous single room; Albergue Turístico de Galisteo
• Restaurants: I cooked at the guesthouse
• Things to note: Galisteo is very small but so pretty. Make sure to go for a walk along the walls to enjoy the view. 

Stage 13: Embalse de Alcántara – Grimaldo, 20.9 km – 13 miles

Given my alternative route, I entirely skipped this path, although I was told it was a pleasant walk (from Casar de Cáceres to Grimaldo since the route through Embalse de Alcántara was not doable). 

• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Grimaldo
• Things to note: Unless the albergue reopens, you will have to change this stage too.

To recap, these are your options:

1. Walk from Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres 12km – from Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral 32 km – from Cañaveral to Grimaldo 8 km
2. Walk from Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres – from Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral – from Cañaveral to Galisteo 27 km (then you can refer to my stages below) 
3. Take a bus or train to Cañaveral – walk from Cañaveral to Grimaldo 8 km
4. Take a bus or train to Cañaveral – walk from Cañaveral to Galisteo 27 km

Stage 14: Grimaldo to Carcaboso, 30.8 km – 19.1 miles

If you stopped in Grimaldo, this would be quite a long stage. If you walked to Galisteo, it would be just over 10 km. The other pilgrims I was walking with chose the second option. I did a different thing. 

• Intermediate stages: Galisteo
• Accommodation: Albergue Señora Elena

My alternative stage 13: Galisteo to Oliva de Plasencia, 31 km – 19.2 miles

I felt like walking 10 km and stopping for the day was too short a stage. So I decided to walk a longer stage, but because there was no doable “official” stage, I decided to deviate for roughly 6 km to Oliva de Plasencia. 

The stage was pleasant, with beautiful landscapes. I stopped for a break in Carcaboso, then continued through a gorgeous park full of trees and the occasional cows. The last 6 km, however, were on the side of the road, on the tarmac, which can be very tough on the feet. That part was neverending. 

In total, it took me 8.5 hours to walk roughly 35km (it was supposed to be 31 km). I also had a long break in Carcaboso and attempted a shortcut that forced me to retrace my steps to rejoin the official path, so that detour added time and kilometers. 

• Intermediate stages: Carcaboso
• Accommodation: Casa Rural Via Caparra, €30 for a single room
• Restaurants: Hostal Restaurante Cafetería Ciudad de Caparra (Carcaboso)
• Things to note: If by any chance you do the same stage I did, make sure to follow the official route and not attempt any shortcuts. Prepare for a boring stretch along the road.
  • Have a break in Carcaboso and get some snacks because there’s no other stop until Oliva de Plasencia. 

Stage 15: Carcaboso – Aldeanueva del Camino, 38.6 km – 24 miles

This is another stage worth dividing. Most pilgrims choose to stop near Caparra, where there are two accommodation options, Hostal Asturias and Jarilla Hotel. You can walk there or even arrange for someone from the hotel to pick you up at Caparra. 

Whether you divide it or not, the entire walk is very pleasant. The trail is not at all difficult. 

• Intermediate stages: Caparra
• Accommodation: Hostal Asturias and Jarilla Hotel (Caparra), Albergue La Casa de mi Abuela (Aldeanueva del Camino)

My alternative stage 14: Oliva de Plasencia to Aldeanueva del Camino, 27 km – 16.8 miles

The walk from Oliva de Plasencia was much shorter, roughly 27 km. I passed by Caparra, but the archaeological area was still closed, so I continued straight to Aldeanueva del Camino. It took me seven hours in total, with a few snack breaks. 

• Intermediate stages: Caparra (just the archaeological area, no services except for the two hotels off the path)
• Accommodation: I stayed at Casa Rural El Mullaero, €36 for an entire apartment
• Restaurants: I went grocery shopping at the local Carrefour Express and cooked in my apartment. 
• Things to note: Nothing specific, except divide the stage if you can, and always bring water and snacks since you have big stretches with no services. 

Stage 16: Aldeanueva del Camino to La Calzada de Béjar, 22.2 km – 13.8 miles

For me, this was stage 15 since I had done two stages in one after Cáceres, but I was finally back on the path and following the official stages. This was probably one of the most beautiful stages. The nature was just stunning, and the halfway stop in Baños de Montemayor was lovely. 

There’s a stretch along the road during the first part, but after that, you go back on a small path, and it’s peaceful and shady. The difficult part is the climb as you leave Baños de Montemayor, but you’ll enjoy the view from the top. From there, it’s pretty easy, although there are some more ups and downs but nothing major. 

It took me just over six hours to complete this stage, with a coffee break in Baños de Montemayor and a few other breaks along the way (to look at the views and take pictures, I admit it). 

• Intermediate stages: Baños de Montemayor, Puerto de Béjar
• Accommodation: I stayed at Albergue Alba Soraya (La Calzada de Béjar) for €20 for a private room, but they also have beds. 
• Restaurants: Bar Perdigon (for coffee and tostada in Baños de Montemayor), Bar Manuela (the only bar/restaurant in La Calzada de Béjar)
• Things to note: You have another accommodation option Albergue Puente de la Malena, between Puerto de Béjar and La Calzada de Béjar, recommended by other pilgrims. You’ll pass it anyway since it’s in the middle of the forest, right by the path. It looks absolutely adorable. 

Stage 17: La Calzada de Béjar to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra, 20.2 km – 12.5 miles

My stage 16 on the Via de la Plata was short and easy, with less than five hours of walking. Although I passed other villages in between, they were all pretty much deserted. The one bar I came across was closed despite it being a weekday and the middle of the morning. 

Prepare for this stage by packing some snacks and enough water in case you don’t find anything open along the way. However, the stage is short, and you can easily reach Fuenterroble de Salvatierra by lunch, where you’ll find a small grocery store and a few restaurants serving the menu del peregrino. 

• Intermediate stages: Valverde de Valdelacasa, Valdelacasa
• Accommodation: I stayed at Casa Rural Arrieros Familia Garcia, €25 for a single room; alternatively, check out Albergue parroquial Santa María
• Restaurants: Mesón El Pesebre (Fuenterroble de Salvatierra). They serve menu del peregrino for around 9€
• Things to note: You may have to agree on the breakfast time with other pilgrims since the only bar in La Calzada de Béjar only works for pilgrims. In my case, it was 7.15, so I had to have an earlier start than usual. 

Stage 18: Fuenterroble de Salvatierra to San Pedro de Rozados, 28.6 km – 17.8 miles

This was stage 17 for me, and it was quite long but mostly pleasant. The most difficult part is a climb you’ll come across roughly halfway through the stage. This is also where you’ll reach the halfway point of the Camino, between Sevilla and Santiago de Compostela. 

You’ll walk along the ancient roman road, by pig farms, and through wind farms. You’ll get to see gorgeous views of the surroundings from the top of the hill, then you’ll descend toward your destination, San Pedro de Rozados. 

The stage has no other stops in between, so you’ll need to plan and get some snacks or even lunch since it’s pretty long. It took me just over 7 hours to complete it. 

• Intermediate stages: None
• Accommodation: I stayed at Casa Rural VII Carreras, €20 for a double room (I shared it with a pilgrim friend). They also have an albergue for €10
• Restaurants: Casa Rural VII Carreras, €12 for a good menu del peregrino, and they also serve a nice breakfast for €2.5
• Things to note: Long stage with no stops in between. Pack some food, and bring enough water. You can buy bread and other stuff at the small grocery shop in Fuenterroble de Salvatierra. 

Stage 19: San Pedro de Rozados to Salamanca, 23 km – 14.3 miles

This was the last stage of the Via de la Plata before reaching Salamanca, which was a big milestone for me. It’s quite a short stage, with no major elevation gains. You even have a few stops in between to have a coffee and rest for a bit. It’s a pleasant stage, and you’ll likely feel fueled by the excitement of reaching Salamanca. It only took slightly over five hours to complete.

I had already planned on staying two nights in Salamanca to recover and visit the city. I recommend doing so, as this is one of the most beautiful cities on the Via de la Plata. Because I knew I would spend two nights, I booked a private room in advance. 

• Intermediate stages: Morille, Miranda de Azán
• Accommodation: I stayed at Salamanca Suites, €45 for 2 nights; alternatively, you can stay at Albergue de peregrinos Casa la Calera, which is a donativo.
• Restaurants: La Fragua de Ros (for coffee in Miranda de Azán, just a short deviation from the path); Mesón Cervantes (for tapas in Salamanca). 
• Things to note: Try getting the sello in the Salamanca Cathedral, it’s a nice one to have. 

Salamanca to Zamora 

I divided this into three instead of two. Some pilgrims even divide it into four, which is easier to do following the official stage. I went a bit off the path. Below you can find the original stages with the basic information, followed by the alternative three stages I did. 

Stage 20: Salamanca to El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino 36.4 km – 22.6 miles

• Intermediate stages: Aldeaseca de Armuña, Castellanos de Villiquera, Calzada de Valdunciel (15 km from Salamanca, has an albergue if you want to split this stage)
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Calzada de Valdunciel; Albergue Torre de Sabre

Stage 21: El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino to Zamora, 31.8 km – 19.8 miles 

• Intermediate stages: Villanueva de Campeán (13km from El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, has an albergue); San Marcial
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Villanueva de Campeán, Albergue de Peregrinos de Zamora

My alternative stage 19: Salamanca to Castillo del Buen Amor, 27 km – 16.8 miles

As you’ve learned so far, the stages on the Via de la Plata can be either very long or very short. It’s hard to keep a steady average. For this stage, with a pilgrim friend, we decided to treat ourselves to a stay at this wonderful castle halfway between Calzada de Valdunciel and El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino. 

This would allow us to shorten only a little the long stage, so we would have three stages before Zamore. Also, how often do you get the chance to stay at a real-life castle? We couldn’t find any good reasons to pass on this opportunity, even if it meant spending quite a bit more than our usual daily budget. 

If you have the budget for it, I recommend staying at Castillo del Buen Amor. It’s a fairytale-like place. The landscape is gorgeous, the castle is beautiful, and you’ll have the best night’s sleep on the Camino in the cozy beds. The stage took almost six hours to walk.

• Intermediate stages: Aldeaseca de Armuña, Castellanos de Villiquera, Calzada de Valdunciel
• Accommodation: Castillo del Buen Amor, €50 per person in a double room
• Restaurants: Castillo del Buen Amor
• Things to note: You’ll have to deviate nearly 3 kilometers from the path, but there’s an alternative from there to rejoin the Camino further ahead the following day, so you don’t have to retrace your steps. 

My alternative stage 20: Castillo del Buen Amor to Villanueva de Campeán, 28 km – 17.4 miles

After the most restful night on the entire Via de la Plata, it’s time for another long stage. From Castillo de Buen Amor, there’s a small shortcut to rejoin the official path. 

The walk is pleasant, without much climbing. We came across lots of animals, from sheep to the usual cows and a few donkeys. The landscape is spectacular, with rolling hills in all shades of green and yellow. It looks like a painting. 

You can stop for a break roughly halfway in El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino. This is great to break off this long stage, so don’t skip a coffee and snack break. 

It took me just over six hours to walk this stage, with a few breaks along the way. In Villanueva de Campeán, the albergue is pretty run down and basic. The beds didn’t even have sheets. It’s a tragic downgrade after spending the night in a castle, but what are you gonna do?

• Intermediate stages: El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino
• Accommodation: Albergue Privado Villanueva del Campeán, 15€ for a private room (it also has a dorm)
• Restaurants: Bar Hernández (El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino); Bar Vía de la Plata, €7.5 for menu del peregrino
• Things to note: In Villanueva del Campeán, go to the bar to ask for the keys and pay for the albergue. They will also give you the sello there. 

My alternative stage 21: Villanueva de Campean to Zamora, 19 km – 11.8 miles 

A short stage to recover and reach Zamora early enough to explore the city. It took me only four hours to walk this stage. I arrived in Zamora at 1 PM, while the albergue was only opening at 2 PM, so I still had some time to walk a bit around and check out the surroundings. 

Zamora is a beautiful city. You’ll enter it by walking along the river, so you can admire the old town from the opposite shore of the Douro River. Try to explore the historical center a bit after checking into the albergue. 

This is a popular stage to start the Camino too. Many people who can’t walk the whole Camino from Sevilla choose to start here. This means you’ll start seeing more pilgrims from here onwards. 

• Intermediate stages: San Marcial
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Zamora (donativo)
• Restaurants: Tapería Balborraz (for tapas, Zamora)
• Things to note: Try to be at the albergue at 2 PM sharp for the opening. Because it’s a popular stage, not just to start the Via de la Plata but also to stop and visit the city, you’ll likely find it more crowded than other places. If you want to get the bottom bunks, ensure you’re there when it opens. 

Stage 22: Zamora to Montamarta, 18.6 km – 11.5 miles

The albergue in Zamora offered a nice breakfast to start the day but forced us to leave before 8 AM. With a short stage ahead, we took it slow and arrived at our destination before noon, after less than four hours of walking. 

The worst part of this stage is that it’s mostly gravel roads, which can be a bit hard on the feet. However, it’s short and has no elevation gain. You’ll arrive at an empty albergue on the side of the road before entering the town of Montamarta, where you can settle in as if it were your home. 

The albergue has one big dorm, which can be challenging if you get any snorers. However, it also has a gorgeous garden with tables and benches to sit and relax in the sun. It was one of my favorite albergues on the Camino. 

• Intermediate stages: Roales del Pan
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Montamarta (municipal), €5
• Restaurants: Bar Restaurante La Piscina (for a break in Roales del pan), El Pescador Cafe (Montamarta, for lunch/coffee); we cooked dinner at the albergue. 
• Things to note: At the albergue, someone will come at some point to collect the money and put the sello on your credencial. Alternatively, there’s a box where you can leave the fee. In the kitchen, you may find leftovers from previous pilgrims, and you can do the same for those who will come after you. 

Stage 23: Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela, 22.9 km – 14.2 miles

As we spoke with other pilgrims at the albergue in Montamarta, we realized that there was an alternative path straight to Tábara, allowing us to gain a day and avoid walking an unnecessary extra distance. This is only valid if you plan on walking the Sanabrés moving forward. 

You need to choose which Camino to continue on after Granja de Moreruela, so if you opt to join the French Way, you’ll have to do this stage. If you decide to take the Sanabrés, this is a good option, and only slightly longer. I’ll leave the intermediate stages and accommodation options for you here. 

• Intermediate stages: Fontanillas de Castro, Riego del Camino
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Granja de Moreruela

This is what the map looks like. Instead of walking two stages, north to Granja de Moreruela and then west to Tábara, you walk directly west. 

Stage 24: Granja de Moreruela to Tábara, 25.3 km – 15.7 miles 

NOTE: From here on, the stages switch from the Via de la Plata to the Camino Sanabrés. The following stages will not apply to you if you choose to go to Astorga to join the Camino Francés. 

• Intermediate stages: Faramontanos de Tábara
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Tábara

My alternative stage 23: Montamarta to Tábara, 29 km – 18 miles

The stage is quite long, and there are long stretches on the side of a big road. However, the landscape is breathtaking, especially when you cross the Esla River. After a long walk on the tarmac, you can finally join a dirt path that is much easier on the feet. 

About 7.5 km before reaching Tábara, you can stop for a break in Pozuelo de Tábara. It’s just a minor detour but a refreshing break, especially if you haven’t packed lunch. It took me 7.5 hours to complete this stage, with a few short breaks. 

In Tábara, you can stay in one of the quirkiest albergue on this Camino. The albergue is a donativo and offers a communal dinner and breakfast, all included in the amount you choose to leave. The dinner is a nice occasion to socialize with other pilgrims, and the food is really good. 

The only downside when I was there was that the new wing of the albergue was still under construction, so the rooms and bathrooms had no doors. Not great, especially for a girl, but that’s all part of the Camino charm. 

• Intermediate stages: Pozuelo de Tábara
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Tábara (donativo)
• Restaurants: Bar Yhasmin (break in Pozuelo de Tábara); dinner at the albergue
• Things to note: This is not an official Via de la Plata stage, so you’ll need to follow a map. I used Maps.me alongside Google Maps. We kept looking for a way to get off the road, and we finally found it shortly after crossing the Esla River and passing La Encomienda. Because this is not signaled anywhere, I’ll add a map here for your reference. 

Stage 25: Tábara to Santa Marta de Tera, 22.7 km – 14.1 miles

This was stage 24 for me, after cutting out the stage to Granja de Moreruela. It was an easy stage, although there were some ups and downs, especially during the first part of the walk. 

The good thing is that you have a few intermediate stops where you can rest, have a coffee, and chat with other pilgrims. With a few breaks in between and walking slower than usual, it took me just over five hours to complete this stage. 

In Santa Marta de Tera, you’ll stay at a gorgeous, newly renovated albergue. The albergue is right next to the church, where you can get your sello and check out the oldest existing statue of Santiago above the door at the back of the church. 

• Intermediate stages: Villanueva de las Peras, Santa Croya de Tera
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Santa Marta de Tera (municipal), €5
• Restaurants: Bar La Plaza (Villanueva de las Peras); AS de Copas (Santa Croya de Tera); Venta Medievo (Santa Marta de Tera)
• Things to note: At one point of the stage, you’ll reach a crossroads where you can choose to continue straight to Villanueva de las Peras or turn right to pass through Bercianos de Valverde. Note that in Bercianos, you will not find a bar (and it looks like a bit of a detour). 

Stage 26: Santa Marta de Tera to Mombuey, 36.9 km – 22.9 miles

At this point, I didn’t want to walk more than 30 km if I could avoid it, so I decided on a shorter stage. This also means that all the stages until the 30th, A Gudiña, are different from the official ones. 

From this point on, you have a lot more flexibility in how to divide your stages. I’ll list both the official ones and my alternatives. Since I had already gained a day, I could afford to do shorter stages.

• Intermediate stages: Calzadilla de Tera, Olleros de Tera, Vilar de Farfón, Rionegro del Puente
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Mombuey

My alternative stage 25: Santa Marta de Tera to Rionegro del Puente, 27 km – 16.8 miles

The stage was just long enough to be a bit tired but not exhausted. You’ll walk through a beautiful forest in the beginning, then you’ll cross an impressive dam over Río Tera, and you’ll walk along the beautiful river for a while. 

Not long after the dam, you’ll pass by a virtually deserted village, Vilar de Farfón, where you’ll come across the small Albergue Rehoboth, managed by a couple from New Zealand. Stop for a coffee and a sandwich and have a chat with them. You could also spend the night here, but I recommend it even just for a small break. For us, after 20 km without an open bar, this was a blessing. 

Instead of walking to Mombuey, we decided to stop one stage before in Rionegro del Puente, and it was the best decision ever! We had the best dinner on the entire Camino, a delicious and beautiful three-course meal plus dessert for just €15, cooked by a real chef. It’s worth stopping here just for this dinner. The stage took roughly 7.5 hours, with quite a long break at Albergue Rehoboth.

• Intermediate stages: Calzadilla de Tera, Olleros de Tera, Vilar de Farfón
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos Virgen de Carballeda, 10€
• Restaurants: Me Gusta Comer (this will be your best dining experience on the Via de la Plata. Don’t miss it!)
• Things to note: You could also pass through Camarzana de Tera, but that means taking a detour. I think so early in the day (after less than 5 km), you won’t desperately need the break. However, keep in mind that you may have a hard time finding any open bars early in the morning in this area, so pack some snacks. 

Stage 27: Mombuey to Puebla de Sanabria, 31 km – 19.3 miles

Because I stopped in the village before, this stage looked different for me. However, I would recommend stopping in Puebla de Sanabria, if possible. It’s an amazing small town. 

• Intermediate stages: Valdemerilla, Cernadilla, San Salvador de Palazuelo, Entrepeñas, Asturianos, Palacios de Sanabria, Remestal, Otero de Sanabria, Triufé
• Accommodation: Albergue Casa Luz (Puebla de Sanabria)

My alternative stage 26: Rionegro del Puente to Asturianos, 25.5 km

The stage is pleasant and just long enough. The landscape is beautiful, there aren’t many ups and downs, and you pass through many small villages. However, most of these have no service and look almost abandoned. 

The albergue in Asturianos consists of a small room with six bunks! We realized this as we were having a break halfway, so we decided to speed up to catch a bed. We ended up with the top ones, but they will still accommodate pilgrims on mattresses placed on the floor in a big hallway, right in front of the bathrooms. 

While the indoors and services are not the best, the albergue is just outside the village, in a peaceful location in nature. It’s a beautiful place to relax and rest. This stage took me six hours to complete.

• Intermediate stages: Mombuey, Valdemerilla, Cernadilla, San Salvador de Palazuelo, Entrepeñas
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Asturianos
• Restaurants: Bar-Meson El Carmen
• Things to note: If you choose to stop in Asturianos, plan to arrive as soon as possible to find a free bunk bed, otherwise you’ll be left sleeping on the mattress on the floor. 

Stage 28: Puebla de Sanabria to Lubián, 29.5 km – 18.3 miles

If you follow the official stage, note that there’s quite a bit of walking uphill. Aside from that, the stage is beautiful. 

• Intermediate stages: Terroso, Requejo, Padornelo, Aciberos
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Lubián

My alternative stage 27: Asturianos to Requejo, 28 km – 17.4 miles

The first bit of this stage is on the side of a big road, on the tarmac. However, you’ll soon reach Palacios de Sanabria, where you can have your breakfast. The rest of the way, though quite long, is very pleasant. 

Because we weren’t planning on staying in Puebla de Sanabria, yet we still wanted to explore the town, we decided to have a longer break there. Furthermore, we found out from a flyer in the albergue in Asturianos that the owners of a private albergue in Requejo offered free backpack transport from Puebla de Sanabria to the albergue, so we decided to take advantage of it. 

We had a long break in Puebla de Sanabria, wandered around town, and visited Castillo de los Condes de Benavente. Walking without a backpack for the rest of the way felt amazing. The path is very enjoyable, almost entirely along a small river where you can refresh your feet. There’s some climbing toward the end, but nothing too difficult. I completed the stage in nine hours, with roughly three hours of break in Puebla de Sanabria.

• Intermediate stages: Palacios de Sanabria, Remestal, Otero de Sanabria, Triufé, Puebla de Sanabria, Terroso
• Accommodation: Albergue Casa Cerviño, €13
• Restaurants: Bar Mirador (Palacios de Sanabria, breakfast); Café-Bar España (Puebla de Sanabria); for dinner, we cooked at the albergue.
• Things to note: Get in touch with the Albergue Casa Cerviño in the morning to ask if you can leave the backpack to be transported to the albergue. Plan on having a longer break in Puebla de Sanabria and visit the castle if you can, it’s only €3. 

My alternative stage 28: Requejo to A Vilavella, 27 km – 16.8 miles

Before moving on to the next official stage, we had to catch up since we divided the previous stages. We started walking from Requejo, unsure if we would stay in Lubián or continue walking further. When we got to Lubián around noon and saw the tiny albergue, we decided to keep going. 

The last part of this stage is the most complicated. There’s a big hill to climb right before entering Galicia. At the end of an already pretty long day, it’s quite challenging. It took me nine hours to complete the stage. The uphill at the end slowed me down quite a bit. 

There was no albergue in A Vilavella, so we stayed in a hostal that still had good rates for pilgrims. 

• Intermediate stages: Padornelo, Aciberos, Lubián, A Canda
• Accommodation: Hostal Porta Galega, €33 per person for a double room with dinner included
• Restaurants: Bar Estrella de Lubián (coffee break), Hostal Porta Galega, very good menu del peregrino
• Things to note: From Requejo, you can walk for a bit along the road to save a few km. You’ll then rejoin the path, but you shorten it. Pack some snacks and prepare for quite a climb toward the end of the stage. Your efforts will be rewarded with stunning views. 

Stage 29: Lubián to A Gudiña, 27 km – 16.8 miles

If you stayed in Lubián, you have quite a long stage, with the uphill section that I mentioned before at the beginning of the walk. It could be a good idea to get that out of the way early in the day rather than arriving to it already tired. 

• Intermediate stages: A Canda, A Vilavella, O Pereiro, O Canizo
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos Casa da Viúva (A Gudiña, municipal), €8

Note: From here on, you are in Galicia, where all albergues municipals look the same and have the same cost of €8. While they are new or renovated and very nice, they rarely have blankets and can be quite cold. Furthermore, in spring 2022, the kitchens were not equipped, a shame since they are all new and very nice. 

My alternative stage 29: A Vilavella to A Gudiña, 15 km – 9.3 miles

Having skipped the stay in Lubián, we had a shorter stage. Because we knew we would have an easy stage, we took it slow and enjoyed the view. You’ll pass through wonderful landscapes and lovely streams where you can rest and dip your feet. Beware, though. The water is freezing! 

You also pass through a couple of villages, but they don’t have many services. From o Pereiro, we took a small detour to stop for a coffee at a restaurant on the main road. The stage took me five hours, with many breaks and just enjoying the walk and the view. 

• Intermediate stages: O Pereiro, O Canizo
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos Casa da Viúva (A Gudiña, municipal), €8
• Restaurants: Restaurante Don Pepe (near O Pereiro); O Peregrino (A Gudiña, serves huge dishes for less than €10, including the drinks)
• Things to note: If you don’t want to take the detour to have a break in O Pereiro, bring a snack. Also, there’s a lot of walking in the sun, so bring enough water and wear sunscreen. 

Stage 30: A Gudiña to Laza, 35 km – 21.7 miles

This is a very long stage with quite a bit of walking uphill. You have to prepare for a long day. You start with a big climb, then you keep walking uphill at a lower inclination for quite some time. The view, though, is simply breathtaking. 

When we walked this stage, we encountered menacing clouds when we were almost at the highest point, so we took cover in some abandoned houses in A Venda da Capela, waiting for the rain to pass. We still got caught in the rain about half an hour later. 

We stopped for a break and to wait for the rain to stop in Campobecerros. This is a village where you could also sleep if you choose to break this long stage into two. In total, it took me almost nine hours to walk this stage.  

• Intermediate stages: A Venda da Teresa, A Venda da Capela, Venda do Bolaño, Campobecerros, Portocamba, Eiras
• Accommodation: Albergue de Peregrinos de Laza, €8
• Restaurants: Cafe Bar San Francisco (for breakfast in A Gudiña, probably the only place open before 8 AM); Bar da Rosario (the only bar in town, a curious place); Restaurante Picota (for dinner in Laza)
• Things to note: The stage is long and quite hard, with most of the way uphill, the steep downhill to Campobecerros, and more ups and downs all the way to Laza. If you feel like the distance is too long, consider breaking this stage into two.
  • You may want to get some food in A Gudiña though since the bar in Campobecerros doesn’t appear to be very furnished. 
  • Roughly 7 km before you reach Laza, you’ll come across a small rest station for pilgrims, with snacks and a few chairs to sit down and rest. You can leave a small donation and get whatever you need. 
  • Finally, to check into the Albergue in Laza, you must go to the Protección Civil office in the center of Laza, close to the city hall. They assign separate rooms for men and women. 

Stage 31: Laza to Xunqueira de Ambía, 33.2 km – 20.6 miles

After a long and tiring stage the previous day, I didn’t want to have another long day, so I decided to have a shorter stage on this day and a longer one the following. 

• Intermediate stages: Soutelo Verde, Tamicelas, Alberguería, Vilar de Barrio, Bóveda, Vilar de Gomareite, Bobadela a Pinta, Padroso, Cima de Vila, Quintela
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Xunqueira de Ambía

My alternative stage 31: Laza to Vilar de Barrio, 19 km – 11.8 miles

In the morning, you can have breakfast at Restaurante Picota before starting your day. If you choose to do this short stage, you’ll have a pleasant walk through lovely landscapes, albeit with some ups and downs.

Make sure to stop by Rincón do Peregrino in Alberguería. It’s a tiny albergue and bar almost entirely covered in shells that pilgrims left over the year. It’s basically a Camino museum and a must-see for anyone walking this route. 

It took me less than five hours to complete this stage, including quite a long break in Alberguería. I also slowed down when going downhill to reach Vilar de Barrio. 

• Intermediate stages: Soutelo Verde, Tamicelas, Alberguería
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Vilar de Barrio, €8
• Restaurants: Restaurante Picota (breakfast); Rincón do Peregrino (Alberguería); Casa Carmiña (Carmiña is the sweetest lady, a true grandma, serving you food until you explode! She was on her own when we went there, so the whole thing was very slow, but we had nowhere to go, and she kept bringing out dish after dish, all for €10). 
• Things to note: I truly recommend dividing this stage as I did so you don’t have two back-to-back long stages. Also, dining at grandma Carmiña’s is a true gem. Another pro was that the albergue was nearly empty since not many pilgrims stopped there. 

Stage 32: Xunqueira de Ambía to Ourense, 22 km – 13.7 miles

If you didn’t shorten the previous stage, you’ll have an easy day. We opted for one last effort to make it to Ourense from Vilar de Barrio. 

• Intermediate stages: A Pousa, A Chouzana, Ousende, Pereiras, Castellana, A Zamorana, Reboredo, Seixalbo
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Ourense, €8

My alternative stage 32: Vilar de Barrio to Ourense, 36 km – 22.4 miles

If you choose to do this longer stage, you must be prepared for a long day. You’ll pass through many small villages, most of them not having any services. However, you’ll also find plenty of options to have breaks. 

Grandma Carmiña had advised us that the road before reaching Ourense passes through an industrial area, and she said we should take a public bus to skip the ugly area, so we were prepared to do that if we were too tired. Turns out that she was right. The last few km before entering Ourense are pretty boring and industrial. We took the bus. The stage took a total of 8.5 hours. 

Ourense was the last big city before Santiago, so I decided to spend two days here as well. The city is lively, has a lovely riverside promenade, and beautiful thermal pools, in case you want to go for a swim. It’s a nice place to have a rest day before the last stretch to Santiago. 

• Intermediate stages: Bóveda, Vilar de Gomareite, Bobadela a Pinta, Padroso, Cima de Vila, Quintela, Xunqueira de Ambía, A Pousa, A Chouzana, Ousende, Pereiras, Castellana, A Zamorana, Reboredo, Alto do Cumial, Seixalbo
• Accommodation: Grelo Hostel, €15 with breakfast included; Residencia Universidad, 22€ for a single room
• Restaurants: Bar A Taberna (for coffee in Vilar de Gomareite); Bar Copas (lunch break, Xunqueira de Ambía); Café Bar Ruta da Prata /Pereiras); Taperia do Perico (tapas and drinks in Ourense); 
• Things to note: If you walk the short stage, you likely won’t need to do this, but if you walk this long stage, spare yourself the boring walk and take the public bus from Alto do Cumial. You’ll spare 6/7 km through the uninspiring peripheric areas of Ourense. 
  • At the albergue in Ourense, they want to fill out one dorm before opening another. This means you risk getting assigned a top bunk even if there are other free dorms with bottom bunks. We decided against it and chose to stay at Grelo Hostel instead, which was great, and had a nice breakfast included. 
  • Try to get the sello from the Ourense cathedral if you can. 

From Ourense to Santiago

A few words on these last stages. Many pilgrims start the Camino Sanabrés in Ourense to walk the last 100 km (more or less). This means that the stages from Ourense to Santiago de Compostela are more crowded, and albergues tend to fill up. 

During these last few stages, it’s worth trying to reach your destination as fast as possible. I have seen people arriving at a full albergue and having to find alternative solutions. You don’t want that at the end of a long day. 

Finally, while officially there are four more stages to Santiago de Compostela, I divided it into five because I had no rush to get there, and I preferred taking it slow and enjoying the last few days. Also, there was one stage where the albergue was closed, which meant we had to deviate a bit from the path. 

Stage 33: Ourense to Cea, 22.2 km – 13.8 miles

You have two variations of the stage from Ourense to Cea. The slightly shorter one has a steep climb, but after that, it’s pretty much flat and very pleasant. I took this version, so I can’t say much about the other, but most of the pilgrims I knew opted for this stage, so I guess it’s the most popular. The other is also uphill, but supposedly a less steep but longer ascent. 

At this stage, I could finally see what everyone was talking about, how the albergues fill up during the last 100 km. This particular albergue is one big dorm with over 40 beds. We arrived early and still found most of the bottom bunks occupied by backpacks. Only later, we discovered they had been occupied by someone on behalf of an organized group. This is what you’ll deal with during the last few stages. 

The stage took 5.5 hours at a steady pace, with a few breaks along the way. 

• Intermediate stages: Quintela, Cachaxúas, Cima da Costa, Liñares, O Reguengo, Ponte Mandrás, Mandrás, Pulledo, Casas Novas
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Cea, €8
• Restaurants: Café JJ (breakfast in Ourense); Casa Cesar (coffee break in O Reguengo); Sol y Luna (dinner in Cea, menu del peregrino €10)
• Things to note: Aim to arrive at the albergue in Cea as soon as possible to be able to choose your bed. 

Stage 34: Cea to A Laxe (Bendoiro), 33.2 km – 20.6 miles

A shorter alternative to this stage would have been to stop in Castro Dozón, the recommended stage in most guides. However, the only albergue in town was closed (still in 2022), so we had a couple of options. Find private accommodation near Estación de Lalín or deviate to Lalín. Unfortunately, the place near Estación de Lalín was full, so we were left with one option, walk to Lalín.

If you don’t want to walk the whole stage, check in advance if the albergue in Castro Dozón has reopened or book a room near Estación de Lalín ahead of time, at least the day before. 

• Intermediate stages: Porto do Souto, Cotelas, Mirela, Piñor, Albarona, Fontelo, Arenteiro, A Ponte, O Reino, Carballeda, Castro Dozón, Santo Domingo, Puxallos, Pontenoufe, A Xesta, Medelo, Estación de Lalín, Baxán, Botos, A Eirexe, O Campo
• Accommodation: Albergue Laxe (Bendoiro); Restaurante Hostal A Taberna De Vento (Estación de Lalín)

My alternative stage 34: Cea to Lalín, 27 km – 16.8 miles

Going to Lalín seemed like a good alternative to the long stage from Cea to A Laxe. The stage was still pretty long, and because we took a detour, we walked almost the entire bit from Castro Dozón to Lalín along the side of the road, on the tarmac. 

We had reserved the beds in the albergue in Lalín, which was a good idea given that it was so crowded. Despite arriving pretty early, all the bottom beds were already occupied by people who had taken the bus from Castro Dozón. 

It took me nearly seven hours to get to Lalín, with a coffee break in Castro Dozón and a few shorter breaks along the way. We bought food and cooked dinner in the albergue. We also explored Lalín a little bit, which I recommend if you’re not too tired.

• Intermediate stages: Porto do Souto, Cotelas, Piñor, Arenteiro, A Ponte, O Reino, Carballeda, Castro Dozón, Cabreira, 
• Accommodation: O Albergue de Lalín Centro, €12
• Restaurants: Sol y Luna (breakfast in Cea); Café Fraga (Castro Dozón): we went grocery shopping and had dinner in the albergue
• Things to note: Some pilgrims choose to take a bus or a taxi from Castro Dozón to Lalín. This is an option if you don’t want to walk the long stage. If you walk, you can stick to the official route and get off the path around Estación de Lalín to reach the center of Lalín. We chose to follow a more direct way, even if that meant walking on the side of a big road. 
  • Start getting a second sello during the day, ask any bar you stop for a break. For example, you can get one at Café Fraga in Castro Dozón. 

Stage 35: A Laxe to Outeiro, 34.1 km – 21.2 miles

This is another long stage, which I wouldn’t recommend. Longer stages mean arriving later at the albergue and finding it full, or nearly full. This is reason enough to do shorter stages during the last 100 km. 

• Intermediate stages: Bendoiro de Abaixo, A Ponte Taboada, Trasfontao, Silleda, Riocalvo, Bandeira, Dornelas, San Miguel de Castro, Ponte Ulla
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Outeiro

My alternative stage 35: Lalín to Bandeira, 22 km – 13.7 miles

The first bit as you depart from Lalín is very pretty, through a beautifully curated park along a stream. The rest of the way is also beautiful and easy. You’ll walk mostly through shaded areas, with lots of trees and flowers.

I would have enjoyed this stage a lot more if I hadn’t had a painful and swollen ankle, just the last of my many injuries on the Camino. But if you’re in good shape, the walk is easy and beautiful. 

I also left my water bottle along the way (a bottle that had emotional value), so I decided to go back for it, adding 7 km to the stage. It took me eight hours to walk this stage, but it will take you a lot less without the extra km. 

• Intermediate stages: Espiño, Bergazos, Prado, Taboada, Trasfontao, Silleda, Riocalvo, 
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de Bandeira, €8
• Restaurants: El Cafe de Ame (breakfast in Lalín); Taberna de Prado (coffee break in Prado); Bar Parque (coffee break in Silleda); 
• Things to note: From Lalín, you’ll follow a portion of the Camino de Invierno to rejoin the Camino Sanabrés. If you follow the directions on an app, make sure to switch to this Camino. 
  • Get a second sello for the day along the way. I got two, in Taberna de Prado and Bar Parque Silleda. 

My stage 36: Bandeira to O Outeiro, 17.2 km – 10.7 miles

Because I shortened the previous stage, I had to add an extra stage before the last one to Santiago. The short stage passes through a few lovely villages where you can stop for coffee and rest. 

Enjoy your second-last stage before reaching Santiago and admire the typically Galician landscape with lots of green and probably some early morning fog. It took me 4.5 hours to complete this stage at a very slow pace because I was injured. 

• Intermediate stages: Bandeira, Dornelas, San Miguel de Castro, Ponte Ulla
• Accommodation: Albergue de peregrinos de O Outeiro 
• Restaurants: Cafetería Tapería Atly (breakfast in Bandeira); A Taberna de Gundián (Ponte Ulla); A Cantina de Picón (near the albergue in Outeiro)
• Things to note: The albergue in O Outeiro is in the middle of nowhere, so maybe grab some groceries in Ponte Ulla. Alternatively, you can walk for about 15 minutes to a tiny restaurant in A Cantina de Picón. They usually have hot meals on specific days, but you can get a sandwich, or if you’re lucky, the lady will fix a tortilla de patatas for you. They also deliver food to the albergue for dinner. 
  • You can get sellos at Cafetería Tapería Atly in Bandeira and A Taberna de Gundián in Ponte Ulla.

Stage 36: O Outeiro to Santiago de Compostela, 16.7 km – 10.4 miles

The last stage of the Via de la Plata. Because I divided the stages differently, this was stage 37 for me. The final stage is an easy and short one. It’s a good idea to have a short stage when you reach Santiago so you can get to the Oficina del Peregrino soon, get your credencial, and settle in at your accommodation. The earlier you get there, the smaller the crowd and the shorter the wait to get your credencial. 

As for the stage, it’s pretty easy, but be sure to follow the arrows. The app I was following showed me what looked like a shorter route, and for a moment there, we got lost. 

Prepare for a bit of a climb when you reach Santiago de Compostela, but other than that, the walk is easy. It took me roughly four hours to complete the stage at my slow, limping pace. 

• Intermediate stages: Lestedo, Deseiro, Susana, Piñeiro
• Accommodation: I stayed at Pensión Santa Cruz, 20€ for a bed in a room shared with only two other pilgrims
• Restaurants: Café Bar Hermo (for coffee in Susana, though I can’t say I would recommend this one); Café-Bar Los Cruces (coffee break in Piñeiro); Bar La Tita (for tapas in Santiago); Restaurante El Bombero (for lunch in Santiago); Café Bar “El Muelle” (for breakfast in Santiago)
• Things to note: Just enjoy this last stage and aim to arrive in Santiago early. Go straight to the pilgrim’s office to get your number for the credencial. Along the way, you can get an extra sello at Café-Bar Los Cruces. 

After you’re done with the paperwork, enjoy your achievement in front of the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. You’ve made it!

So are you planning on walking the Via de la Plata soon? Is there anything you think I should add to this guide? Let me know your thoughts or just share your experience walking the Via de la Plata in the comments section.

Buen Camino!