If you travel to Guatemala, you must spend a few days in some of the villages around Lake Atitlán. The beautiful lake is a must-see in the Central American country, and for good reason. It’s a charming place with spectacular nature and picturesque little towns and villages.
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They say Lake Atitlán is the most beautiful lake in the world and that it has magical properties. I’m sure many lakes in the world are just as scenic, if not more, but I agree with the magic thing. The beauty of Lake Atitlán lies not in the scenery, which is gorgeous, don’t get me wrong. Its beauty, though, lies in everything surrounding it, from the villages to the people, the stories, the communities, the traditions, and the legends.
For me, Lake Atitlán is one of those places that makes you never want to leave. Maybe it’s magic. I don’t know. What I do know is this place has a piece of my heart, and I’m sure one day I’ll be back. But enough romanticizing it. I want to tell you all about the villages you can discover on the shores of Guatemala’s – or the world’s – most beautiful lake.
Lake Atitlán Quick Facts
Lake Atitlán is a volcanic lake that originated in the caldera of a supervolcano following an eruption roughly 84.000 years ago. The entire area is known for the presence of many volcanos, some active and others dormant. The lake is the deepest in Central America, reaching a maximum depth of 340 meters.
There are three volcanos around Lake Atitlán, all in the south. Two volcanos, San Pedro and Tolimán, are within the caldera, while Volcán Atitlán lies just outside the caldera in the south. Although you can potentially hike all three volcanos, San Pedro is the most accessible and popular for day hikes.
There is no road circling Lake Atitlán, just small portions connecting some villages. The main means of transportation is the lancha (boat). These small boats transport around 20 people (though you’ll often find them more crowded) and have regular departures from most villages on the lake. “Public” lanchas have fixed fares between 15 and 30 quetzales per ride. You’ll also find locals offering private lanchas, but they charge way more.
To get around the villages and travel between nearby villages, you can use tuk-tuks. You may need to negotiate the rate as they tend to overcharge foreigners. I’ll let you know the rates for the places where I used the tuk-tuk.
The local currency in Guatemala is the Quetzal. One US dollar equals roughly 7.8 quetzales. You will need cash in most places, so make sure you exchange or withdraw enough money. Only a few villages have ATMs, like Panajachel and San Pedro, so withdraw enough money in advance. Regardless of your bank, all ATMs charge a fee of roughly 30 quetzales per withdrawal. Always carry cash for lanchas and tuk-tuks.
The Legends of Lake Atitlán
The most fascinating stories about Lake Atitlán are those related to ancient legends. According to one of them, a monster lives in the depths of the lake, much like the Loch Ness monster. This huge serpent or dragon-like creature bears the name of Chakona or Arcoiris and is said to be responsible for many sunken boats over the years. For decades there have been reports of sightings of strange animals emerging from the lake, though none were ever confirmed.
Another legend narrates that there’s a sunken city in Lake Atitlán’s depths. Although this may not be the legendary city in question, a submerged island was discovered in Lake Atitlán in 1998. The ruins of Samabaj lay untouched under Lake Atitlán since sometime around 300 CE. Back then, a major eruption of Volcan Atitlán caused the lake’s water levels to rise until they swallowed the island entirely.
Lake Atitlán guards many other fascinating stories and secrets, but I’ll let you discover them on your own. Just chat with some locals on the lancha. They will be happy to share some cool stories.
I’ll cover practical information on how to get to Lake Atitlán and where to stay at the end of the article. Now, let’s get into the places you can visit around Lake Atitlán.
San Pedro La Laguna
I spent one week in San Pedro, which probably is why this village is my favorite. I got to know its little alleys and shortcuts, learned to find my way without looking at the map, and even found my favorite eating spot.
San Pedro is a chaotic little village, in the best way. With tuk-tuks darting through the narrow streets, souvenir shops selling colorful jewelry and objects, cafés, and small restaurants at every corner, San Pedro had my heart from day one.
I think San Pedro is the perfect location to explore surrounding villages like San Juan, San Marcos, and Santiago Atitlán. Furthermore, it offers several guided tours in the surroundings, including the sunrise hike at Nariz del Indio (Indian Nose, a peak just outside Santa Clara.
San Pedro is also said to be the party village on Lake Atitlán, though to be honest, I didn’t experience it. I only went out one night with a friend, and we didn’t find the town to be particularly lively. Maybe it was still too early.
The great thing about San Pedro is that you can find great restaurants and cafés with delicious food and spectacular lake views. This was one of my favorite activities in San Pedro, hunting for cute places to eat, have coffee, and work.
My favorite place for eating out in San Pedro is the middle eastern Pita Sabij, while my favorite coffee place is Tornado’s Coffee. For the best lake views, catch a tuk-tuk to Café Panorama.
San Juan La Laguna
I visited San Juan on a half-day trip from San Pedro. The village is so close to San Pedro that you can easily reach it on foot, and that’s what we did. It takes about 45 minutes to reach San Juan from the center of San Pedro, walking along the main road. The only downside is there is no sidewalk, but the road is also not busy, so it’s fine. Just avoid walking there at night.
The alternative to walking from San Pedro is to take a tuk-tuk for roughly 15Q. You can also reach it by lancha from San Marcos, San Pedro, and Panajachel.
The main area to explore in San Juan is the road going up from the docks, also known as La Calle de las Artes, where most shops, art galleries, and cafés are. This is the typical setup of all villages around Lake Atitlán. When you get off the boat, you walk along a road lined with colorful souvenir shops, cafés, and restaurants.
A popular spot in San Juan is the beautiful viewpoint of Mirador Kiaq’Aiswaan. However, we didn’t make it there. Instead, we explored more of San Juan, checked out some art galleries where we chatted with local artists, and discovered gorgeous street art.
Make sure to spend some time exploring all the small streets of San Juan’s center, you’ll find some beautiful spots. Calle de los Sombreros is particularly beautiful, but many streets are decorated with incredible art. We stopped for great coffee and cake at Cafe San Juan, where you can also buy local ground coffee.
San Marcos La Laguna
The first time I visited San Marcos was on a day trip from San Pedro, already knowing I would spend three days there for a yoga retreat. I arrived full of expectations, having heard about San Marcos being an alternative, New-Agey place with yoga and meditation centers, lots of expats, and gorgeous restaurants and cafés. I was not disappointed.
If you arrive in San Marcos by lancha, you’ll immediately cross the most touristy part of the village. A long, narrow street lined with shops, cafés, restaurants, and the occasional yoga and meditation center will welcome you to the spiritual and hippy village of Lake Atitlán.
Aside from checking out the shops and sampling local coffee, you can also go on a beautiful coastal walk in Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve, where you’ll also find a diving platform, in case you’re interested. There’s a fee to access the park from the official entrance, but you can also access from the other side. Just follow the road to San Pablo, and you’ll find a narrow path to the left, right before the turn to Eagle’s Nest.
Speaking of Eagle’s Nest, this is an absolute must in San Marcos. An eco-resort in the middle of the forest, with a yoga platform overlooking the lake, a lovely café serving delicious food, and lots of activities, from breathwork sessions to salsa.
I spent three nights at Eagle’s Nest and wished I never had to leave. Between great yoga lessons, the breathtaking views, the wonderful people I met, and the fun activities, I fell in love with the place.
For eating in San Marcos, I recommend Samsara’s Garden for delicious vegetarian dishes. For coffee, Arati Café is divine, but Circles Café is also very good.
Santa Catarina Palopó
The contrast between the lush green and the patch of colors on the side of the hill that is Santa Catarina Palopó is a weird and wonderful sight. This tiny village is just outside Panajachel, and it’s so small that you can’t even reach it by chicken bus.
The way to reach Santa Catarina Palopó is a bit alternative but fun. Close to the cathedral of Panajachel, at the corner of the street, you’ll notice pick-up trucks accommodating people on two benches in the back. These pick-up colectivos take locals to and from Santa Catarina Palopó for just 5Q. It’s the most fun ride you’ll have around Lake Atitlán.
Santa Catarina Palopó is not much of a tourist place compared to San Pedro or San Marcos. While you’ll see some foreigners around, the town has little to offer visitors, except for the ever-present souvenir shops and a few restaurants. However, in recent years, locals have been trying to attract more tourists.
In 2017, the project “Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó” was launched with the goal of painting hundreds of houses around the village in bright colors and Mayan symbols to make the village more attractive. So spend some time wandering around and checking out the colorful houses. For a beautiful panoramic view, head to Artesanal café – mirador. Unfortunately, it was closed when we went there, but we could still admire the view.
Panajachel
The gateway to lake Atitlán, Panajachel is a town on the northern shore of the lake. Because it’s the most accessible place on the lake for those coming from Antigua, Panajachel is also pretty crowded and chaotic. Buses to different parts of Guatemala depart from here, so you can expect a lot of movement at any time.
Like in any other village on Lake Atitlán, you’ll find a long street with all kinds of shops and restaurants. We only went to Panajachel on a short-day trip, mainly because we wanted to visit nearby Santa Catarina Palopó. We wandered a bit around the main street and stopped for coffee at Cafe Moka while waiting for the rain to stop and for pupusas at Rinconcito Salvadoreño.
Panajachel wouldn’t be my choice for a base around Lake Atitlán, I prefer much quainter places. However, it has lots of services and is well connected to all the other villages around the lake, so it’s good if you’re short on time and want to explore a few nearby places.
Santiago Atitlán
I was surprised by how big Santiago Atitlán was. Used as I was to the compact San Pedro, I expected Santiago to be somewhat similar. Instead, as I started walking around town, I realized how far out it spread.
I’ll admit this was my least favorite town on Lake Atitlán. Despite its undeniable charm and beautiful views over the lake and San Pedro Volcano, I felt constantly pressured by locals offering to show me where Maximón was. Let me explain.
Maximón is a Mayan deity and saint, likely the result of a blend of religious figures. While he is worshipped in many places across Guatemala, he is particularly celebrated in Santiago Atitlán, where his effigy is moved to a different household every year during the Holy Week.
Because Maximón’s location is only known to locals, they will offer visitors to guide them to his location, in exchange for a few quetzales. And while I fully respect and admire these local traditions, I felt a bit overwhelmed by all the people approaching me and offering to take me to Maximón. Moreover, I was the only foreigner on the lancha from San Pedro, so there was nobody else they could offer their services to.
Anyway, I’m pretty sure I passed by Maximón’s home during my wandering around Santiago. It was a random house, and I could see a colorful shrine with lit candles through the open door. Locals were passing by squaring me, so I didn’t stop to get a closer look.
I wandered around Santiago for a few hours before heading back to San Pedro. I recommend checking it out on a short day trip if you have time, but don’t go out of your way to get there, unless you want to pay a visit to Maximón.
Other villages on Lake Atitlán
There are a few other villages you could visit around Lake Atitlán. San Pablo is the least tourist-friendly village. The village was never open to receiving tourists, so there isn’t much to do. Even locals would tell you not to go there. However, the village appears to be slowly welcoming more visitors. Now you can find a café and a couple of accommodation options there.
Santa Clara is located inland, just up from San Pablo, and is the departure point for the Nariz del Indio hike. Santa Cruz La Laguna is halfway between San Marcos and Panajachel, while San Antonio Palopó and San Lucas Tolimán are on the eastern shore.
How to get to Lake Atitlán, Guatemala
Most people reach Lake Atitlán from Antigua, but you can get there from many places across Guatemala. I spent a week in Antigua before going to Lake Atitlán and returned there for a few more days after.
The best combination of safety and affordability is to catch a shuttle bus from Antigua to your desired village on the lake. Most shuttles go to either Panajachel or San Pedro, passing through San Pablo, where you can take a tuk-tuk to San Marcos. You can book a shuttle bus at one of the many travel agencies all over Antigua or through your accommodation. They all have some contact with an agency.
Depending on the traffic, it can take anywhere between 2.5 and 4 hours from Antigua to Panajachel and even 5 hours to San Pedro. I was quite unfortunate on the way there. My shuttle departed nearly one hour late from Antigua, and I got to San Pedro around 8 PM.
Where to stay on Lake Atitlán
The most popular places to stay on Lake Atitlán are Panajachel, San Marcos, and San Pedro. I chose San Pedro because it looked like the most affordable place, and I had already heard good things about it. I stayed a bit outside the center of San Pedro, in a basic but lovely guesthouse right by the lake, Hotel y Restaurant Playa Linda. They served an amazing breakfast, and the garden was adorable.
I also stayed three nights in San Marcos, at Eagle’s Nest, which I recommend if you have the budget for it. They offer all-inclusive stays in gorgeous cabins overlooking the lake. You get three daily meals, two daily yoga lessons, and at least one daily activity included in the price. Plus, you get discounts on other activities they organize, like breathwork sessions and salsa lessons.
Booking.comI think San Juan is also a nice place to stay, although you may be a bit more limited in terms of transportation if you want to move around. Finally, Panajachel is a good location to explore the lake, and you’re closer to Antigua. Just be prepared for a crowded, touristy place.
How long to stay on Lake Atitlán
Forever. Just kidding. Or am I?
All jokes aside, you should plan on staying at least three days around Lake Atitlán to make your trip worth your while. Anything less than that is just a hassle. Given that it takes at least three hours to get to Atitlán from Antigua and three hours back, you’ll spend nearly a whole day on the road.
Three days – that is three nights – will allow you to explore two or three villages and go on a hike like Nariz del Indio. However, I would recommend spending upwards of five days to truly get a feel of the local culture, visit more villages, try some activities, and enjoy the magic of the lake.
If you’re short on time, joining guided tours may help you optimize. You’ll find many agencies in San Pedro and Panajachel that sell guided tours. If you want to plan ahead, check out these guided tours and activities around Lake Atitlán.
I spent nine nights at Lake Atitlán, six of them in San Pedro and three in San Marcos. While I feel this time has allowed me to get to know the place a bit better than your average tourist, I still wish I could have stayed longer. The atmosphere around the villages, the kindness of locals, the beauty of the lake, and its surrounding nature, all made me want to stick around longer.
Useful tips about Guatemala
If you fly to Guatemala, you’ll likely land at the country’s main airport, near Guatemala City. Most travelers choose to go straight to Antigua from the airport. Guatemala City has a reputation for being dangerous, so many visitors avoid it altogether.
I stayed two nights in Guatemala City, but I only visited the center once. I never felt in danger, but I did take all the precautions I could, like not wearing any flashy jewelry, avoiding using my phone too much on the street, and in general, being aware of my surroundings. What I can tell you about the capital city is that it’s chaotic.
I’m not going to advise you against staying there, but I can tell you that your time is better spent in other parts of the country, like Antigua, Lake Atitlán, Flores, and Semuc Champey.
To move around the country, you can opt for the flashy and colorful chicken buses for a local experience or the shuttle colectivos used by locals and foreigners alike. Chicken buses are significantly cheaper, but shuttles are safer, faster, and more comfortable. I always took shuttle buses to move between cities.
Another thing you need to be aware of is the water you drink. Most, if not all, places you’ll stay at will provide filtered water. Always drink that to be safe. I also carried a Grayl water purifier that I used occasionally. Restaurants serve filtered water free of charge.
I think that should cover it. If you had any doubts about visiting Lake Atitlán and these picturesque villages, I hope I gave you a few reasons to discover this wonderful place. Make sure to also check my articles on the beautiful colonial ruins in Antigua Guatemala, the best cafés to work from and have great coffee in Antigua, and my choice of nice restaurants in Antigua. Also, you should absolutely do the spectacular Acatenango overnight hike.
Let me know in your comments if you’ve already been to Guatemala and Lake Atitlán and what are your favorite places.
