Just off the northern coast of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula extending into the Caribbean Sea, Isla Holbox is a little peaceful haven. Until not long ago, the island was barely inhabited, let alone a touristic area. This has changed quite fast in the past few years and now the island is an ongoing work in progress. Buildings are being built, new restaurants are opening, and hostels are welcoming more and more tourists.
Arriving on the car-free Isla Holbox
From Valladolid, at the center of the peninsula, I hop on an ADO bus in direction to the small village of Chiquilà. The trip takes about two hours and a half, driving along narrow roads immersed in the tropical jungle. From Chiquilà, a ferry boat takes me to Holbox island in about 20 minutes.
As I get off the ferry and start walking towards my hostel, I’m not exactly impressed. I was expecting a heavenly place, with clear blue waters, palm trees, and lovely little houses. Instead, I’m greeted by dirt roads and dust. A lot of dust.
The main village seems to have been erected only in the past months, out of nowhere. There are buildings under construction and unpaved roads. The main means of transportation are some golf cart taxis. As I walk towards my hostel I see them passing by, bringing tourists to their accommodation or back to the port.
My hostel also appears unimpressive. Just two small dormitories with lots of beds, a couple of toilets and showers inside and the rest outside next to the camping area with a bunch of tents. It does seem peaceful though, with a big table outside, hammocks hanging around, and lots of trees surrounding the yard. However, I doubt I could fall in love with the place anytime soon.
Exploring the island
As I start exploring the surroundings of my hostel, I discover I’m only a few minutes away from the beach. And that there are only a bunch of people sunbathing. I gaze in the distance at the endless blue of the ocean and the white sand. A few seagulls are flying around and there’s a quiet, calm atmosphere. It almost feels like being alone on a deserted island.
I walk along the beach, my feet sinking in the soft sand as the warm water washes over the shore. I finally lay on the beach and bathe in the turquoise water, grateful for having all of this almost all to myself. Isla Holbox suddenly doesn’t look so bad.
Later in the evening, I head out to explore the center of the village. The dirt roads lead to a lively main square, filled with music, street vendors, and lots of people walking around.
In a small open space, there’s a Zumba lesson taking place and in the street, other people are dancing. Restaurants are jam-packed, hundreds of flavors overflowing from the kitchens as I walk by. Along the sides of the square, there are small stands selling more food. I am pleasantly surprised by the liveliness of the little village that puts me immediately in a good mood.
Finding peace in Holbox
During the following two days, I feel as if I’m in a peaceful bubble, completely disconnected from the rest of the world. Isla Holbox has grown on me in a matter of half a day. I get used to the modest hostel and enjoy spending time outside, writing at the big table in the fresh morning air. On the second evening, I have dinner at the hostel with the rest of the travelers. We get to know each other, exchange travel stories, and eat delicious homemade pasta.
I have work to do but a good internet connection on the island is a luxury. I manage to get some of it done but the stress of the slow connection finally dissuades me. In the end, I make peace with the idea that I’ll have to catch up later. It’s probably for the best.
Discovering hidden gems
On the last day, I wake up early and rent a bike from the hostel to explore another area of the island, Punta Cocos. This is the westernmost tip of Holbox island, only 10 minutes away by bike. Cycling along empty, remote roads feels like paradise. No cars, no people. Just the occasional taxi golf cart.
I end up on a virtually deserted little beach and relish sunbathing in complete silence. After a while, I lock my bike and walk along the coast all the way to Punta Cocos. I go for a swim in the small bay with crystal clear waters and the weirdest fish I had ever seen gliding between my feet. They look like a mix between a baby swordfish and an eel.
The sun is already high up in the sky and it’s getting hot. The water, though not very cold, is still refreshing in a pleasant way. There are more people around but it’s still a quiet, lovely place.
I don’t have much time before my ferry so I unwillingly get up, walk to my bike, and ride back to the hostel to pack my stuff.
I don’t want to leave but reality is calling. There’s a pandemic threatening to leave me stuck in Mexico and I really need a stable internet connection to plan my departure. And work. But as I cycle back along those same empty roads, a part of me wants to stay on Isla Holbox and forget about the rest of the world.
Falling in love
In the end, I have fallen in love. With the dusty island, the simple hostel, the outside showers that I appreciate only too late when I realize I can shower looking at the sky and the palm trees. And of course, the bright blue of the ocean, the white sand, and the neverending summer vibes.
Isla Holbox is exactly what I was looking for without even knowing it. An escape from the bustling cities and some peace of mind on an island with palm trees, ocean views, and barely any internet connection.
Some useful info
I was in Mexico at the beginning of March 2020, right before the pandemic started spreading everywhere. As I was leaving the country, there were only a few cases but the number of infections has unfortunately grown a lot lately.
Sadly, Mexico may not be on top of your list at the moment but I can’t recommend it enough for when the world will finally restart. And Holbox island is one of those places that hasn’t yet been completely overtaken by tourists but where you can still meet other fellow travelers.
My hostel was actually pretty cool despite my first impression. There’s a lot of choice by I totally recommend it: Mapache Hostel & Camping.
ADO is the main bus company in the area and there are direct rides from Cancún as well as Valladolid.
Tip: rent a bike and go explore the island. It’s the best way to find remote places that you can enjoy all for yourself!
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[…] P.S.: if you’re planning on visiting Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, check out also my article on Isla Holbox. […]
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