If you visit Antigua Guatemala, you must check out these impressive colonial ruins, a stunning testimony of Antigua’s rich history.
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Brief history of Antigua Guatemala
The colonial city of Antigua Guatemala is one of the most popular destinations in the Central American country and for good reason. The charming city served as the colonial capital of the Kingdom of Guatemala for over 200 years. Back then, the so-called Captaincy General of Guatemala, or Kingdom of Guatemala, was a Spanish colony and included all Central American countries and the current Mexican region of Chiapas.
However, Antigua was not Guatemala’s first capital. The first capital, Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala, was in modern-day Iximche. The name came from the feast of Saint James, which was on the day of the capital’s founding. The capital later moved to a different region, now part of Ciudad Vieja. An overflow of water and mud from nearby Volcán de Agua destroyed the town only 14 years later. That is when Antigua Guatemala became capital under the same name, Santiago de los Caballeros, in 1543.
Antigua served as the capital until the earthquakes of 1773 destroyed most of its buildings. The earthquakes are also known as Santa Marta earthquakes because the mainshock happened on the feast of Saint Martha on July 29, followed by many aftershocks until December of the same year.
Guatemala City was founded in 1775 as Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción. To build the city, locals used materials from the ruins of Antigua, especially the abandoned churches.
Luckily, many ruins remain, a small but powerful testimony of Antigua’s history. I found these places to be among the most fascinating sights in Guatemala, and I think it’s worth visiting a few of them. Here are four of the most impressive colonial ruins in Antigua Guatemala.
Practical Information About the Ruins in Antigua Guatemala
You can visit all of these sites daily, more or less between 9 AM and 5 PM, but be sure to check the schedule in advance. Although you can visit on your own, you may find guides offering to show you around and tell you the history of the place for a – not so small – fee. Note that the fee is negotiable, so you can offer a lower price and try to strike a deal.
The colonial ruins sites in Antigua Guatemala are managed by Consejo Nacional para la Protección de la Antigua Guatemala (CNPAG), and they all have the same entrance fee of 40 quetzales for foreigners. Guatemalan citizens only pay 5 quetzales, while Central American citizens pay 15 quetzales.
I was surprised to find all these places nearly empty. I visited each of them at different times of day, yet I never saw more than a bunch of people. The weather was nice too, so I couldn’t find a reason for the lack of visitors. Still, I enjoyed having the places almost all to myself.
Monasterio y Templo de la Recolección
This is one of my favorite colonial ruins in Antigua. Although now most of the place is just a big pile of deformed rocks, the few walls still standing and the massive masonry blocks give you an idea of the magnificence of this place in its golden days. I felt a mix of sadness and awe looking at the massive pile of ruins.
Templo de la Recolección was the first colonial ruins site I visited in Antigua. I went on a sunny Saturday in October. It was just after 10 AM, and I was the only person there when I arrived. Just a few other visitors entered by the time I left, roughly one hour later.
The history of La Recolección began in 1685 with the arrival of two friars of the Recollects to the capital of Santiago de los Caballeros. The friars asked for permission to build a monastery for missionary fathers, but this was initially refused. Many believed the friars would want to build a massive and sumptuous church and dwellings for the friars, and the city was already paying for many religious buildings.
Nevertheless, in 1700 a royal decree allowed the friars to build a monastery. The church was inaugurated right before the 1717 earthquakes that provoked significant damage. The reparation works that followed, along with those after the 1751 earthquake, led to the church becoming one of the largest in Santiago, and even more impressive than the cathedral.
The remains you can see today give you an idea of the size and magnificence of the place, the most iconic piece being the arch, still standing, leading to the sanctuary. The large and sumptuous building was in contrast with the order’s mission and lifestyle, which lived only on alms.
Nowadays, the church of La Recolección is full of masonry debris. This is a result of the 1773 earthquake and the consequent action of time, weather, and man interventions. Locals blasted the parts of the church still standing, either because deemed unsafe or to prevent any attempt at reconstructing the temple.
Ermita y Colegio de San Jeronimo
San Jeronimo Hermitage dates to the 16th century, when the Mercedarian Friars arrived to the city and began constructions. The vaulted chapel was built much later, in 1675, while the school was completed by 1757. The school closed only four years later as it didn’t have authorization from the Crown. In its place, the government established the Royal Customs House in 1765. However, this building too was short-lived.
The 1773 Santa Marta earthquakes destroyed most of the monuments. Only the Hermitage continued to be used until 1804. Whatever materials could be useful from the Royal Customs House were sent to Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción to build the new capital.
Just a few ruins remain from the upper floors. One of the stairways allows you to reach a surviving portion of the upper floor that overlooks the central patio with the fountain and the majestic Volcán de Agua in the background.
I visited this site on a warm October morning around 10 AM. I saw less than ten people during my visit, which lasted just over one hour. The site is small and compact, so you can easily see everything in just half an hour.
My favorite thing about this site in Antigua is that you can watch Volcán de Fuego erupting in the distance. I discovered this by chance while trying to take a picture of myself. I found a little space upstairs with a view of the volcano in the distance and set my phone. As I went to sit for the picture, I noticed a huge grey cloud coming out of the volcano. It was my first time seeing Fuego erupt, and even from that distance, I was speechless.
Convento Las Capuchinas
The full name of its place, Templo y Convento de Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza, is quite a mouthful. So, the place is simply known as Las Capuchinas. This is one of the most visited colonial ruins in Antigua Guatemala. Even so, I found it quite empty when I visited it on a Friday afternoon in late October. You can easily tour the whole site in just half an hour but set aside up to one hour if you want to take your time.
Architect Diego de Porres designed the convent in 1731. This was the last religious building to be erected in the city in 1736. King Philip V approved the building of the convent in 1725, soon after the Order of Capuchin Poor Clares arrived in the city.
The convent was unique and innovative in many ways. Firstly, it was the first convent that didn’t demand a dowry for new people to join religious life. Secondly, the convent featured a unique retirement tower in all of America. The circular retirement tower features 18 cells, with private bathrooms and study areas, developing around a central patio.
The main cloister with low columns was built to resist earthquakes. Even after the massive earthquake that destroyed most of Antigua, the cloister is still standing. The convent is among the best-preserved buildings in the city.
After the Santa Marta earthquake, even though the convent didn’t suffer severe damages, the convent’s assets were moved to the new capital Nueva Guatemala de la Asunción. The building served various purposes in the following years, including a space for drying coffee.
Monasterio y Templo de Santa Clara
I visited Santa Clara Convent on a Sunday morning in October, and it was pretty much empty. Just a few more visitors arrived after me, so I got to wander around undisturbed for one hour and a half. You can visit it in less than one hour if you have a tight schedule, but I recommend taking your time.
From an architectural standpoint, this was my favorite site of all. I loved the arched cloister with the fountain you can admire from various perspectives, the gorgeous, colorful flowers, and the narrow passages, stairways, and corridors.
The monastery of Saint Clara was home to the Poor Clares, a contemplative order of nuns founded by Saint Clare of Assisi. Construction of the monastery began in 1700 and ended in 1715, only two years before the 1717 earthquake, which caused significant damage.
Architect Diego de Porres supervised the reconstruction, which finished in 1734. One of the most impressive features of the monastery is the church façade, showcasing intricate Baroque decorations. The unique feature of the church is that it was within the monastery walls.
The nuns living in the convent, being an enclosed order, couldn’t exit it and had to rely on donations from the faithful. A sort of revolving window allowed people from the outside to deliver food and other goods to them.
If you visit these wonderful colonial ruins in Antigua, be sure to spend some time admiring the elaborate church façade with its stone sculptures and decorations.
More things to do in Antigua Guatemala
The colonial city has much more to offer than colonial ruins. Wander around the Plaza Mayor and check out the markets selling all kinds of goods and souvenirs on the weekends. Check out the iconic Santa Catalina Arch, sample delicious coffee at the many gorgeous cafés, try traditional food, and discover the colorful handicrafts markets.
If you’re short on time, try joining a guided walking tour, like this Antigua Guatemala: Half-Day Walking Tour.
Getting to and staying in Antigua Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala is roughly 1.5 hours from the capital Guatemala City and La Aurora airport. The best and safest way to reach Antigua is by shared shuttle. You can find shuttles at the airport or ask at your accommodation if you’re going to Antigua from Guatemala City.
Alternatively, you can catch a much cheaper chicken bus. Chicken buses are old US school buses repainted in bright, flashy colors and used for public transportation across Guatemala and other Central American countries.
You’ll likely get to Guatemala by flying to the main international airport of La Aurora, in the south of Guatemala City. If you’re staying in Guatemala City, you can catch an Uber to your accommodation.
In Antigua, you’ll find plenty of accommodation options. I stayed one week in Antigua before going to Lake Atitlán. Then I went back for a few more days, so I changed accommodations. I had a nice stay everywhere, even though the places were basic.
At the first place I stayed, Casa Landivar Hotel, I loved the breakfast and the beautiful balcony overlooking Volcán de Agua. Casa ELA was amazing, with a rooftop terrace where you can watch Volcán de Fuego erupting in the distance. Finally, Hospedaje El Viajero Antigua is great for budget single rooms and has a nice terrace.
Find more accommodation options on Booking.com: Booking.com
More practical information for your trip to Guatemala
Upon arrival, I got a sim card at the airport to have an internet connection right away. I paid around 30 USD for a Tigo sim card with internet for a month. I recommend doing this either at the airport or as soon as you get to Guatemala City or Antigua.
Alternatively, if your phone supports an eSIM, download Airalo for convenient eSIM options for any country. Get US$3 off your first eSIM data pack using this link. (Not an affiliate link, I genuinely love this service. Anyone gets a referral code to invite friends when signing up.)
Finally, a few words about staying in Guatemala City. People advised me against spending time in the capital because deemed dangerous. I decided to stay in the city for a couple of nights anyway and went to the historical center once.
The city is very chaotic, but if you stay in safe areas and take a few precautions, like not wearing flashy jewelry and/or carrying expensive gear, you should have no problems. I believe there is no reason to stay in Guatemala City for more than a couple of days. Once you’ve seen the historical center with the main square and cathedral, there isn’t much else to do.
I do recommend spending some time on Lake Atitlán. If you’re looking for inspiration, check out this article about the most charming villages on Lake Atitlán. If you happen to be a digital nomad or just need a space to work in Antigua, check out these work-friendly cafés. Also, here are my favorite restaurants in town. Lastly, try the memorable Acatenango overnight hike from Antigua.
I wish you a great stay in Guatemala, and I’d love to hear your thoughts about these colonial ruins in Antigua and any other places you enjoyed in Guatemala. Share them in the comments section or contact me.
