A trip to Mostar is a must if you ever plan on visiting the Balkans. A unique city filled with culture, natural beauty, and history, Mostar is a must-see in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
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I visited Mostar in September when the crowds were already starting to diminish but the temperature was still pleasant and the days quite long. This is probably an ideal time to visit the Balkans area if you wish to avoid big crowds but still want to enjoy the sunshine.
I spent two days in the city and, although I wish I could have stayed longer just for the pleasure of walking around the old town, I believe this is already a good amount of time to explore the main sights. With a few extra days you could also explore the surroundings. My trip to Mostar was a short deviation while I was visiting Croatia. I went there by bus and, as I passed by, I could see incredibly beautiful places. So I am planning on going back to explore more of the natural sights the country has to offer.
What I loved about Mostar is how nature seems to have merged with man-made landmarks and buildings in a perfect balance. I loved sitting at a restaurant and looking over the small river and the greenery surrounded by beautiful stone houses. Or sitting on the bank of the river, the city right above, and feeling completely immersed in nature.
Some historical and cultural context before your trip to Mostar
Despite the beauty of the city, it’s hard not to acknowledge that the wound of the Bosnian war has not yet healed. It is tangible in the memory of the people who have lived it and the areas of the city that haven’t been entirely rebuilt. Visiting Mostar inevitably means remembering the atrocious war that happened not that long ago. Although Mostar seems to have been reborn from its ashes, the separation between the three religions and ethnicities in the city remains. Bosniaks are mainly Muslim, Serbs are mainly Orthodox, while Croats are Catholic.
By talking to locals, it’s easy to understand how this division still affects their daily lives. Even beyond the places of worship, the division affects schools and social gatherings, not to mention the city itself. Mostar is still somehow divided between the majority of Muslims on the east side and Croats on the west side of the bridge. But rather than separating, the bridge – rebuilt in 2003 – aims to do what all bridges do: connect the two sides.
Even the country’s politics still embodies this division. Did you know Bosnia and Herzegovina has not one but three presidents? Yes, three presidents are elected every four years, each representing one ethnic group/religion. The presidents then rotate and govern the country for eight months at a time. This, for instance, is something I did not now before visiting Mostar.
Enough with the history lessons as I am not the most suitable person to give them. You can find places in Mostar where you can learn more about the history of the city and country. However, my trip to Mostar made me realize how much I still need to learn, and I believe that’s the beauty of travel.
Without further ado, here are the sights you shouldn’t miss and a few more to add to the list if you have enough time.
Admire the Renowned Stari Most
The most famous landmark in Mostar is Stari Most, the Old Bridge. The original bridge dated back to the 15th century, when Mostar was an Ottoman frontier town. The bridge gave the name to the city, as mostari means bridge keepers. Back in the day, the bridge was an exceptional technological achievement as it had the widest arch in the world.
Unfortunately, the bridge and most of Mostar’s historical center were destroyed during the Siege of Mostar, between 1992 and 1993. Croat forces destroyed several mosques and blew up Stari Most. The bridge is a reminder of the most tragic event in the history of Bosnia and Herzegovina, but it also represents a symbol of resilience. The reconstruction of Stari Most started in 1997 and ended in 2004, when the bridge, the exact replica of the original Stari Most, was inaugurated.
I found Stari Most one of the most unusual bridges I’ve ever seen, not only due to its architecture. Crossing the bridge is not such an easy peasy task like mindlessly walking around. No! You need to be careful as the stone is really slippery and they have added these sorts of narrow steps, so you won’t slip and fall, but that means paying attention not to trip. It’s hard to explain but watch your step!
Discover the “Crooked Bridge” Kriva Cuprija
Not too far from Stari Most, you’ll find what seems like a miniature replica of the main bridge, over the much smaller Radobolja river. Kriva Ćuprija appears to have been built before Stari Most, as a model for the latter, to test if the semicircular arch would withstand big loads. Like its bigger relative, Kriva Ćuprija was also destroyed during the war and had to be rebuilt.
I liked the bridge and the entire area around it, with stone houses and lots of greenery. It’s just a bit tucked away from the more touristy areas and much quieter but truly beautiful. Make sure you don’t miss it!
Visit Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque and Minaret
Another great example of Ottoman architecture, Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque is the most renowned mosque in the city. A trip to Mostar wouldn’t be complete without paying a visit to the mosque. Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque is on the bank of the Neretva River, right before the whole market street. The entry ticket includes a visit of the interior and the climb to the minaret.
Side note: Ladies need to wear clothes covering the legs. I happened to be wearing shorts on that day so I wore one of the skirts that were available for unprepared visitors like me. The skirt is easy to wear on top of your clothes so no need to worry if you arrive unprepared. I thought I had to cover my arms as well but apparently it wasn’t necessary. P.S. Yes, I did choose the skirt that matched my top. 😀
The interior has white walls with colorful decorations and a collection of carpets in different styles and colors cover the floors. From the mosque, you can access the narrow staircase that will take you to the top of the minaret. The little balcony offers a 360 degree view of Mostar, including the river, the ever-present Stari Most, and the colorful buildings of the old town.
Discover Beautiful Local Street Art
In the less touristic area of the city, where the signs of the war are still visible on some of the buildings, beautiful street art decorates the ones that have been rebuilt. If you have some extra time, venture a bit further from the main landmarks on the western side of the city, near Carinski most (the bridge right next to the bus station).
If you walk down Tvrtka Miloša and Alekse Šantića you’ll have the chance to see some truly beautifyl street art on the renovated buildings. It’s a different side of Mostar that I really appreciated.
Enjoy Lunch by the River
If there’s one thing that shouldn’t miss from your Mostar trip is experiencing traditional cuisine. NearKriva Ćuprija, alongside the small river, there are many traditional restaurants with beautiful terraces overlooking the small valley. I enjoyed having a late lunch at Divan, a restaurant serving traditional Bosnian dishes at truly affordable prices.
As you access the restaurant from the main road, Onešćukova, you wouldn’t expect to have such a view. But walk down a narrow staircase and you’ll reach a lovely terrace, perfect to enjoy the warm weather. I wanted to try different traditional dishes so, in the end, I opted for a chicken soup (Bey’s Broth) and the Herzegovina mixed plate, which had different stuffed vegetables with a side of mashed potatoes. One of the most fulfilling and heart-warming meals I had during my entire trip.
Make the Most of Your Mostar Trip with a Taste of Bosnian Coffee
If you’re a coffee-lover, you cannot pass on a traditional Bosnian coffee. Very similar to Turkish coffee, once again due to the Ottoman influence, Bosnian coffee is brewed and served in a small copper pot (ibrik). As opposed to Turkish coffee the Bosnian one doesn’t come already sweetened. You’ll be served the pot along with a cup and sugar cubes, so you can sweeten your coffee as you desire. Probably one of the best parts of Bosnian coffee is the beautifully decorated coffee set. And if you like sweets, Bosnian coffee is often accompanied by a Turkish delight (or lokum).
You’ll find many places to have coffee in Mostar but one worth paying a visit is the lovely Café de Alma, close to the old bridge. The traditional décor and the beautiful outdoor space make it a perfect stop for a morning coffee or an afternoon break. Here, you can even learn more about Bosnian coffee, the traditional way to drink it, and the story of the shop.
Indulge in Heartwarming Traditional Cevapi
A traditional meal in all Balkan countries, ćevapi (or ćevapčići) is a grilled dish made with a mix of minced meat and served in groups of 5 or 10. They actually look like small sausages without skin.
You can eat ćevapi pretty much in any Bosnian restaurant. You can have a quick takeaway pita bread with ćevapi or sit at a restaurant and have a rich plate of ćevapi with vegetables, sauces, and traditional flatbread.
One of my favorite spots in Mostar was Tima-Irma. Aside from serving traditional Bosnian food at super affordable prices, the restaurant has a traditional vibe and a super friendly staff. If the weather is nice, sit outside so you can enjoy the warmth and watch people passing by. But make sure to arrive early and prepare to queue for a while. The place is really popular, and it doesn’t have many tables so it’s likely there will be a line. I decided to go for a dish called Pljeskavica. The plate consisted of a sort of stake made from the same mix as ćevapi, a side of vegetables, and traditional flatbread.
Explore the Colorful Markets
In the old town, on both sides of the river, you’ll find colorful markets selling all types of souvenirs, decorations, toys, and traditional objects, like gorgeous coffee sets. I could spend hours admiring the elaborate decorations on coffee pots and cups, each with different colors and motifs. Whether you plan or buying something or not, checking out the shops is a must. And to be honest, it’s impossible not to, since the shops take a great part of Mostar’s old town.
Dive from the Old Bridge or Just Visit Mostar during the Red Bull Cliff Diving Competition
The world-famous Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series has added Mostar to the list in 2015. However, the bridge had been a famous diving spot for centuries. Apparently, the first dive from the Old Bridge took place in 1664. Since 1968, the city has held a yearly diving competition with by the Mostar Diving Club.
Depending on the level of the river, the dive takes place from somewhere between 20 and 27 meters of height. So I would dare say it’s not exactly for everyone. However, even if you’re not a professional diver, you can still attempt the jump. For 50€, you can get diving advice, practice from a lower platform, and attempt the big jump. If you do jump, you’ll become a member of the club for life, and you’ll even get a certificate for your endeavor. Little detail to remember, the Neretva river is one of the coldest in the world (some say the coldest), and even during the warmest months, it’s around 7 degrees Celsius.
If you don’t feel like diving but enjoy a good show, plan your trip to Mostar during the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series. Check the Red Bull website for the dates and more details.
Check out the Museums to Learn about Mostar and Bosnia’s History
If you have enough time and you enjoy museums, there are two main ones you could pay a visit to. I personally didn’t manage to visit them as I was working and I prioritized exploring the city and, well, trying the local cuisine.
Herzegovina Museum has a wide collection of items, documents, and photographs to attest to the country’s cultural heritage through various historical periods. You can visit the museum every day except for Mondays from 8 AM to 4 PM. The official website of the museum has additional information you can check.
Another museum worth visiting is the Museum of War and Genocide Victims. This museum was opened and is maintained by the families of war victims. I am actually planning on visiting this one if I’m ever going back. Here you can have a deeper understanding of the impact of the Bosnian war on the city. Visiting the museum is an emotional experience as you can read personal stories of the people affected by the war and learn about the horror that took place in the country not so long ago.
Planning Your Trip to Mostar
You have several options to travel to Mostar. There is a nearby airport, Mostar International Airport (OMO). However, it only has a few connections at certain times of the year, mainly in summer. Alternatively, you can fly to Sarajevo and catch a train to Mostar. There are two daily trains to and from Mostar, one in the morning and one in the afternoon. If you buy a return ticket you also have a 20% discount, for a total of 19.40KM (roughly €10 or $11). Check the timetables and prices on the official Bosnian railway website.
In my case, Mostar was a stop during my month-long trip throughout Croatia. I traveled by bus from Split to Mostar and from Mostar to Dubrovnik. There are a few bus companies that connect Mostar to Croatia. Prices can vary depending on the season and how long in advance you buy the tickets. I spent less than €35 on both tickets. I normally use Getbybus, Flixbus, or Omio to find cheap bus tickets.
As for accommodation, I stayed at Student Hotel Mostar, five minutes walking from the bus station. I was looking for something cheap but at the same time, I wanted my own room for a change. This was a great option and only around 20 minutes walking from the city center. It even had breakfast included! You can find lots of affordable options for hotels and hostels on Booking.com.
One thing to keep in mind is that Bosnia and Herzegovina is not in the EU. If you have a European sim card, make sure to disable data roaming to avoid overpaying (which I did because I am so used to traveling within the EU). If you need any type of documentation for your trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina, iVisa.com makes it easy to find out the necessary documents and to apply for everything in just a few minutes, without the stress of having to fill out several application forms.
Last but not least, the currency in Bosnia and Herzegovina is the Bosnian Mark (BAM), locally abbreviated as KM. One mark is roughly €0.5 and $0.6. I always use the Xe currency converter App to know how much I’m spending.
And that’s about it. Enjoy your trip to the gorgeous city of Mostar and hopefully explore more of Bosnia and Herzegovina. As for me, I can’t wait to go back!
