If you are considering walking the Via de la Plata, maybe my experience walking this Camino de Santiago can be useful and insightful. I hope reading these words can help you with your own Camino. I divided the story regarding my Camino into four parts. This is the third part of the Via de la Plata, from Salamanca to Ourense.
Before diving into it, note that this article only covers the third part of the Via de la Plata, from Salamanca to Ourense. I started the Camino in Sevilla, you can read part one here and part two here. If you’re looking for tips on how to plan for this Camino instead, read this article.
Finally, you should know that these stages may not coincide with the official ones. You can read all about the official stages in this article on Via de la Plata stages with accommodation and advice. Now let’s get into part three of the Via de la Plata from Salamanca to Ourense.
Salamanca: A Necessary Rest Day
I spent two days in Salamanca, taking a much-needed day off. The city is stunning, and Salamanca’s Cathedral is one of the most beautiful I’ve ever visited. If you do this Camino, I highly recommend spending two days in Salamanca to rest and visit the city.
For me, this rest day was just what I needed. I had been struggling with an itchy rash on my feet for days, and unfortunately, it still hadn’t healed by the time I reached Salamanca. I would wake up in the middle of the night wanting to peel my skin off my feet. Knowing I had a day to sleep in and take it easy was a blessing.
Stage 19: Salamanca to Castillo de Buen Amor
On this day, we went completely off track. From this stage on, I mostly walked with my friend B. The night before, we noticed that we were supposed to walk either a very short stage (15km) or a very long one (36km), and neither option made us happy.
While searching for alternatives, we realized that somewhere halfway between the first and second stops, there was a gorgeous castle that had free rooms. I mean, an actual castle! We could find no reason why we shouldn’t splurge for once, so we booked it and set out to walk roughly 28 kilometers, 3 of which were off the official path.
It was a cloudy and grey morning when we started making our way out of Salamanca. We walked through green fields and across small hills until Calzada de Valdunciel. From there, the path ran along the A-66 highway. At least there was a proper path, even if we could hear the cars and trucks zip past us.
At last, we took a turn to leave the official path and walk towards the castle. A dirt road led to a big gate that led to the castle grounds. We rang the bell and the gate opened to let us through. We were already convinced we had made the right choice. Staying in the castle, wandering its halls and corridors, and dining in the beautiful restaurant was a memorable experience.
If you can spend the extra money for one night, I highly recommend taking this small detour to stay at Castillo de Buen Amor. Sleeping in this place is an unforgettable experience. Needless to say, you’ll have the best sleep on the Camino.
Stage 20: Castillo de Buen Amor to Villanueva de Campeán
After the most restful and refreshing night of the whole Camino and a delightful breakfast, we returned to the official Camino by taking a shortcut. We passed by a big herd of sheep packed in a tiny paddock and guarded by some big dogs that started barking at us but revealed harmless.
Back on the official Via de la Plata, we walked through big, green fields with grazing cows, sheep, and even a few donkeys. We had a short break in El Cubo de la Tierra del Vino, what was supposed to be our stop for the previous day.
The landscape was beautiful. We walked over a bigger hill that provided a stunning view over the surrounding valley covered in fields in all shades of green and yellow. We finally reached Villanueva de Campeán around 4 PM and had a major downgrade after the castle.
The only albergue in the village had a big, cold dorm and a few private rooms. The price difference was minimal, so I paid 15€ for the private room, so I could get some work done, too. At least the local bar served delicious cheap food that we devoured.
Stage 21: Villanueva de Campeán to Zamora
The bar opened quite late in the morning for breakfast, so we had a late start, but we had a short day ahead of us. The walk was pleasant, and the day was perfect, sunny with a bright blue sky and no clouds in sight.
All along the way, we passed endless fields of yellow flowers, Camino milestones, and even a monument with poems dedicated to pilgrims. The path entering Zamora was lovely, following the Douro River and overlooking the old town on the opposite shore.
I had no expectations from Zamora and was so pleasantly surprised. The town is gorgeous, with its well-preserved defensive walls and stunning historical buildings. We arrived too early to check into the albergue, so we went for lunch first. I had a heartwarming bean and chorizo stew at a restaurant in Plaza Mayor.
We checked into the main Albergue in Zamora. Finally a donativo! And it also included breakfast, However, it did have rather strict rules, like closing the doors at a certain hour of the night (10 PM if I remember correctly). They also separated men and women, which I didn’t mind for a change.
Many more people started the Camino at this stage, so we got to see quite a few new faces that would accompany us to Santiago. I took advantage of being in a bigger city and went to work at the local library, then went for some proper grocery shopping in a real supermarket before a tapas dinner and an evening stroll.
Stage 22: Zamora to Montamarta
This stage was very short and, since the albergue in Zamora wanted everyone out by 8 AM, we had an early start to the day. They also offered a breakfast, included in the donation, so we all gathered in the morning and met the new pilgrims starting the Camino in Zamora.
The stage was only 18 kilometers, so we reached Montamarta before noon. The walk was pleasant, although mostly on gravel roads, which were a bit hard on the feet. I felt grateful for the short stage, even more so when we arrived at the albergue and discovered it had a lovely garden with tables and seats.
We found the Montamarta albergue empty, but there were instructions for the “check-in”. We picked our beds, got our sheets, and showered. Given how early it was, I even managed to work before lunch. The albergue is a bit outside Montamarta, but you can reach the village in just a few minutes walk.
There wasn’t much to do in Montamarta, so I took advantage of the free time to get work done in the garden. We also got groceries and had a small dinner with two other pilgrims. Only a few more pilgrims arrived after us, so it was a chill night.
Talking with the other pilgrims, we discovered we could deviate slightly from the Camino and walk straight to Tábara instead of going to Granja de Moreruela the next day, and Tábara the day after. That would save us one day, so it sounded like a good idea.
Stage 23: Montamarta to Tábara
This is not an official stage in the Camino, but we figured walking on the side of the road for a while would be worth it to save one day. We walked 29 kilometers, which is quite a long stage, but it wasn’t too challenging.
The first portion of this unofficial stage was along a big road. This was the toughest part, but we managed to access a dirt path parallel to the main road and enjoyed a peaceful walk. It took a few failed attempts before we could access the dirt road. Since this isn’t an official stage, we didn’t find many directions, and even the apps weren’t useful.
Less than 8 kilometers before our destination for the day we managed to stop for a coffee break in Pozuelo de Tábara, at Bar Yhasmin. Here, we met a lovely couple who had chosen to take the same shortcut.
The last stretch was the toughest. The path was pleasant, and the views were lovely, but we were tired and couldn’t wait to arrive in Tábara. We listened to music to make the time pass faster and finally arrived at the albergue.
The one in Tábara is one of the quirkiest albergues on the Via de la Plata. First of all, it’s a donativo, which is great. The donation includes dinner and breakfast, so it’s more than great. But there were a few peculiarities.
Firstly, they were building a new set of rooms, which didn’t have doors, not even for the bathrooms. We were only two girls and several men all sleeping in one big room with no doors, so it was cold, people were snoring, and we could hear anyone who went to the bathroom. I’ll just say it wasn’t my best night on the Camino.
Stage 24: Tábara to Santa Marta de Tera
The morning started with a harsh wake-up call with classical music that played through breakfast. As much as I enjoy classical music, it’s not my choice of music to listen to at full volume as soon as I get up. Still, it was an interesting experience. The food was great and I’m sure the place is nicer with doors and everything.
We had an early start to the day, but I was feeling weak, probably from the restless night. My muscles were sore and I felt lightheaded, so I took it slow. B., my walking companion, started at his usual pace, so we decided to walk separately for a while. The walk was pleasant, there was an uphill portion at first, but it was mostly flat afterward.
At the albergue in Tábara, we received clear instructions on which path to take since the road had a bifurcation at one point and two options were possible. One was slightly shorter but with no village in between, while the other had a village with a bar. The choice was: coffee break or no coffee break. I obviously chose the first.
We all met at the only bar in Villanueva de las Peras, Bar La Plaza. We had coffee and a snack, recovered energy, and were ready to continue to Santa Marta de Tera. The second portion was easier, and I walked together with B. again.
We arrived at Santa Marta de Tera to find one of the best albergues on the Via de la Plata. It was all new, with lovely common areas and small dorms. Plus, it was only 5€! At the albergue, we met a pilgrim doing the Camino on horseback. This was a first on the Camino, and I didn’t see anyone else doing this after.
Also, the village is lovely, and it even has a church with the oldest known statue of Santiago. Be sure to look for it, the church is close to the albergue. After checking the little village square with the church and paying for the albergue (at the church), we had a sandwich in a little garden by the albergue.
In the afternoon, we walked back to the small town of Santa Croya de Tera, only 2 kilometers away, and enjoyed a drink at a bar. We strolled back to Santa Marta de Tera for a lovely dinner at the cutest little restaurant, Venta Medievo. The entire stay in this village was delightful!
Stage 25: Santa Marta de Tera to Rionegro del Puente
Our stage began just before 8 AM on a sunny but chilly day. We had 27 kilometers ahead of us, so we wanted to have an early start. The first part of the walk exiting Santa Marta de Tera goes through a lush forest. The sun, still low over the horizon, filtered through the trees creating beautiful shadows.
We wanted to stop for coffee but nothing was open yet in Calzadilla de Tera and Olleros de Tera. The villages appeared deserted. We only met an old lady who told us nothing would open until noon, so we walked some more, and at one point, we somehow got lost. We wanted to take a shortcut which led us to a dead end, so we ended up walking through some bushes to find the path.
After a while, we crossed a huge dam, Presa Agavanzal, and shortly after, we stopped for a break by the river. I dipped my feet, still not fully recovered from my many injuries, and immediately felt reinvigorated.
After walking some more along a lovely path that followed the river, we reached the smallest village, Villar de Farfón, which surprisingly had an albergue, Rehoboth, run by a South African couple. We stopped for coffee and a sandwich, and they told us about how the village was virtually deserted, especially during the low season, except for the two of them. If you pass by, be sure to stop at least for a break.
The last portion was pleasant. We felt invigorated after the break, so we kept a nice pace. However, I shortly discovered a new ailment. The back of my legs, from the knee down, was covered in a rash. It wasn’t itchy but it burned when I walked in the sun. Great, just when I was finally recovering from all the other ailments.
We eventually made it to Rionegro del Puente where we settled into a nice Albergue and went for the best dinner on the Camino. The restaurant by the Albergue, run by the same people who managed the albergue, served this delicious 4-course dinner that felt like a gourmet experience.
The restaurant is Me Gusta Comer and is run by a chef who prepares delicious and gorgeous dishes. For 15€, we had an appetizer, a heartwarming soup, a main dish, dessert, cookies and coffee, and a liquor. This was, by far, the most exquisite dinner on the Via de la Plata, so be sure to check it out if you stop in Rionegro del Puente.
Stage 26: Rionegro del Puente to Asturianos
This was an interesting stage. The distance was just right, roughly 25 kilometers, and we started early enough. It soon got very hot, which made it harder to walk. The landscape was beautiful, and it was full of California poppies everywhere. It was the first time I saw these bright orange flowers that made the entire landscape look joyful.
We also passed by some small villages and saw many horses just running wild. After a while, we stopped for a short lunch break and while eating, we checked the hostel at our destination only to find out it only had 10 beds, possibly even just 6 according to reviews.
We finished eating and started walking faster, hoping to get to the hostel early enough to find available beds. When we finally got there, we discovered there was indeed just a small room with 6 bunk beds. The bottom beds were already all taken, but we were lucky to find the top ones free. Shortly after us, more pilgrims arrived, and many ended up sleeping on mattresses on the floor in a sort of hallway.
We met a few new pilgrims here, too. We also managed to go for an early dinner, something rare on the Camino. Although the hostel was small, it was in a beautiful area outside the village, surrounded by trees and greenery. I enjoyed spending some time outside, but by 9 PM pretty much everyone was asleep, so I went to bed too.
Stage 27: Asturianos to Requejo
Knowing that we had a moderately long stage ahead (28 km) and it would likely get hot during the day, we decided on an early departure. We were on our way just after 7 AM. The sun hadn’t yet risen and it was still chilly.
We walked along the main road until the first village, where we stopped for breakfast. I needed my morning coffee for fuel. The rest of the walk was through fields full of colorful flowers, a few shady areas, and some small villages that seemed abandoned.
We eventually reached Puebla de Sanabria, a gorgeous village where most pilgrims stop for the night. We had seen a sign in the hostel the night before that the owner of the hostel in Requejo – our destination for the day – offered to carry the backpacks from Puebla de Sanabria to the hostel. So we contacted them and agreed to leave our backpacks there to explore Puebla de Sanabria and make our way slowly to Requeo.
The village is gorgeous, with an imposing castle at the top of a hill overlooking the surrounding valley. We wandered around charming alleys, visited the castle, and enjoyed our lunch (sandwiches with stuff we bought at a Carrefour in Puebla de Sanabria) while lying on the grass outside the castle.
The rest of the way to Requejo was unbelievably chill and pleasant. Walking without a backpack was so easy, I had forgotten what it felt like. It did get quite hot, so I was extra grateful I was walking light.
When we got to our hostel in Requejo we found our backpacks there. We also discovered there was a kitchen, so we took advantage of it and cooked a simple meal: pasta with pesto and cherry tomatoes. It was a nice change from the usual pilgrim menus.
The hostel was nearly empty. There was just one couple aside from me and B. so we enjoyed a quiet night and I had a restful sleep.
Stage 28: Requejo to A Vilavella
We started this stage without a clear idea of our destination for the day. We knew there was a hostel in Lubian, but we weren’t sure we would stop there. So we decided to start walking and see what time we got there and how tired we were by then.
The official Camino was along a path, but walking along the road seemed more straightforward, so we decided to do that for a while. We eventually got off the road, and that’s when it started raining. Fortunately, it was only light rain and it didn’t last long. We could already feel we were approaching Galicia.
The landscape completely changed during this day. We were suddenly passing through lush forests, walking along rivers, and passing by small villages with stone houses. We arrived in Lubián around noon and peeked inside the tiny albergue, but we decided it was too early to call it a day, so we kept walking.
After walking on a pretty flat path for a while, we arrived at a seemingly endless hill. The Via de la Plata is pretty much flat, and this was one of the very few hills we had encountered so far. After struggling for a while uphill, we finally entered Galicia, properly marked by a very fancy Camino milestone that we would soon see everywhere in the region.
We finally arrived in A Vilavella, a small town with no albergue, so we stayed at Hostal Porta Galega. The modest accommodation offered a very abundant pilgrim’s menu, which we devoured. As we ate, my attention was drawn to the TV in the corner showing the news. I understood everything yet it didn’t sound Spanish, it almost sounded Portuguese. That’s when I realized it was Gallego.
Stage 29: A Vilavella to A Gudiña
After a longer day than planned on the previous stage and the challenging hill right at the end, we decided to take a shorter day to reward ourselves. Still, breakfast was served fairly early, so we had an early start to the day. There was a beautiful soft light and the trail immediately took us through green fields and tiny villages.
After a while, the path entered a forested area and continued along a small river. It was an idyllic landscape. We could smell the fresh air and hear the birds sing and the river flow right by us. This is one of the days I cherish the most on the Camino. It was a short and sweet day with perfect weather and beautiful landscapes.
We took our time, knowing we had a short day ahead. We stopped to dip our feet in the freezing cold river then continued to a slightly hilly area with huge granite stones where we stopped again to enjoy the view.
In the small village of O Canizo, I came across one of the most heart-melting sights. The cutest goat kid was jumping around while a sweet lady was chasing him to feed him. She finally got a hold of him and fed him milk from a beer bottle with a baby bottle nipple attached. The sight just made my entire day.
We arrived at the albergue in A Gudiña even before opening time. We were the first ones to check in the super modern structure, something very different from what we had been used to until that point. After leaving our stuff, we went for a very fulfilling lunch.
We had plenty of time in the afternoon to explore the town, catch up with other pilgrims, and stock up on snacks. I even managed to get some work done before bed.
Stage 30: A Gudiña to Laza
The short and sweet stage 29 was followed by a challenging and long stage 30. Knowing we had 30+ kilometers ahead of us, we started early. The day didn’t start great, with the bar near the Albergue still closed and forcing us to go downhill to the only open bar for coffee.
After breakfast, we started walking up this pretty steep hill. The views at the top, though, made it worth the effort. We could see the Encoro das Portas, a huge water reservoir. The water level was lower than usual, revealing signs of erosion on the surrounding hills. It was a wonderful sight.
We passed some small villages with many abandoned houses until we saw menacing rain clouds ahead of us. It soon started raining, so we took cover in one of the abandoned houses, waiting for the rain to stop. We started walking again, but the rain restarted too, so we just kept going.
In Campobecerros, we stopped for a coffee break and to take cover from the rain for a while. We still had a long way to go, and I was getting in a mood. I walked alone for the first time in many days, and it was just what I needed. The rain stopped after a while, and the sun came out.
The last part of the Camino went through a beautiful forest and was finally downhill. With the sun shining, it got pretty hot. I felt like I had just gotten through three seasons in a few hours. When I finally got to the Albergue, exhausted but in a much better mood, I realized many people were already there. I then found out many took a taxi to escape the rain. I was proud of myself for pushing through and making it there on my own two legs.
Stage 31: Laza to Vilar de Barrio
After a couple of days of feeling in pretty good physical shape, I woke up with pain in my heels. It was probably due to walking downhill on the tarmac for the last part of the previous stage. I also walked pretty fast, which probably didn’t help.
We had breakfast at a bar in the center of Laza, where we met an adorable puppy. In the morning, I took it slow, especially given the steep uphill trail. I walked alone for the first half of the stage until I reached Albergueria. There, I stopped at the cutest Albergue on Via de la Plata.
The albergue is an iconic stop on this Camino. The walls at the entrance and in a tiny room on the ground floor are completely covered with shells. On each shell, pilgrims wrote their names, the date, and sometimes a little message. It’s a quirky little place worth checking out.
After a delicious coffee break, I walked with B for a while, but my feet were in too much pain, so I decided to slow down. I spent the rest of the way walking slowly while listening to music to distract my brain from focusing on the pain in my heels.
In Vilar de Barrio, we arrived at a big albergue that remained mostly empty. There were only three of us spending the night there. The rest of the pilgrims either stayed behind or went ahead. At this point, we were no longer following the “official” stages.
For lunch, we stumbled across a little restaurant that appeared frozen in the 1930s. The tables and chairs were all mismatched, the walls hadn’t been painted in a while, and we were the only ones there for lunch. An old lady served us a giant three-course meal that took us about two hours to finish.
The food was okay, but the lady was so sweet it made it all memorable. We almost felt bad about paying only 10 euros each for all that food. That meal made an otherwise meh day absolutely one to remember. Plus, the lady at the restaurant gave us a great tip about our following stage.
Stage 32: Vilar de Barrio to Ourense
We knew this would be a long and tiresome stage, but we also knew we were going to have a rest day in Ourense, so we were determined to push through. Unfortunately, the day didn’t start well. All the bars were closed so I couldn’t have my morning coffee. Luckily, we stumbled across an open bar only a few kilometers later.
While walking through flowery fields and shady forests, we wondered if we should stop at Xunqueira de Ambia to avoid the 36-kilometer stage. When we arrived around 11.30, we decided to get another coffee and something to eat and keep going. In the worst-case scenario, we could take the local bus just outside Ourense to skip the industrial area, as the restaurant grandma had told us the day before.
The second part of the stage was along a major road that passed through several small villages. In one of them, we stopped for a refreshing drink and to rest our feet. There, we asked for advice about the bus and realized we had to walk at full speed to catch it. We arrived in O Cumial just in time to see the bus approaching the stop. We made a run for it and hopped on. As the bus drove through a gray and sad industrial area, we knew we had made the right choice.
The bus left us just 5 minutes from the Albergue municipal, where we went to enquire about beds. We were told we could only get top bunks because the bottom ones were all taken, and they wouldn’t open new dorms until the previous one filled up. Finally, we decided to head to the nearby Grelo Hostel, which was only 15€ a night and had spacious rooms and a great kitchen.
We took our time shopping for groceries, enjoying an early dinner at the hostel, and then exploring the city center. In the evening, we stopped at a lively bar in the historical center and enjoyed a beer knowing we would have the next day to relax.
The extra day in Oursense was dedicated to catching up on work, exploring the city, and having video calls with friends and family. I even managed to get my sello from the Ourense cathedral. In the afternoon, I walked along the river to the Outariz thermal pools. I ended up walking the equivalent of a short Camino stage, but it was a chill and lovely day.
That’s it for part three of my Via de la Plata, from Salamanca to Ourense. Stay tuned for the final part and let me know in the comments if you have any questions or simply want to share your experience.
Buen Camino!
